South Side Style

Chicago Burlesque

2011-03-03T10:59:00.002-06:00

Custom Clothiers: Astor & Black

2011-02-22T12:12:00.000-06:00

The Great Recession had many effects on our world from job loss to altering our political landscape. In the world of men’s clothing, it caused a return to classic and often somber styles of suits and workwear. Some companies pushed back from Casual Fridays to reinstate more formal dress codes, hoping for an image of stability and professionalism. I for one, applaud the return to the classic styles of the early twentieth century. The three-piece suit, the peak lapel and even the tie bar are among the elements of classic that have been resurrected in recent years. Even with signs of a rebounding economy, it is clear that many of these elements are here to stay with the addition of more colorful elements like bold shirt colors and bright scarves.

Still, it seems like a generation has lost touch with the subtleties and nuances of more formal clothing. As the Baby Boomers sought to shed their ties and suits for denim in the boardroom, later generations lacked the bridge to the correct way to wear suits and ties. As American men rediscover the beauty and elegance of dressing up, the wider availability of custom clothiers has been a great aid to helping men put together a great wardrobe.

One of the largest of this new breed of custom clothiers is Columbus, Ohio based Astor & Black. Founded in 2004, Astor & Black offers a variety of fabrics for their suits, shirts and jackets. What sets them apart from many of their competitors are their full-service offerings, allowing you to purchase ties, shoes, luggage and casual off-the-rack clothing to compliment your wardrobe.

Astor & Black uses this full-service line of offerings to offer great versatility in their casual clothing. They offer some great packages that mix custom sportcoats and shirts with designer denim and casual footwear. Even if you are uninterested in their specific selections, they make great inspiration for your wardrobe.

Of course, their suit offerings are top-notch. With any custom clothing option, the vast number of options can be a bit overwhelming to a novice. My advice would be to flip through photos of suits you like for some research. Not just magazines like GQ or Esquire, but the business trade magazines to get an idea of what is being worn by men in your field. Make certain your clothier is experienced and knowledgeable on modern menswear. I’d love to see any photos you have of your custom suits and would love to hear about your experience at any of Chicago’s clothiers.

Astor & Black

http://www.astorandblack.com

426 W. Elm Street

Chicago, IL 60610

(216) 409-6700

Festival of Flesh Burlesque. Not Safe For Work.

2011-02-19T07:38:00.000-06:00

Festival of Flesh Trailer from Tellum Productions on Vimeo.

Speakeasy at the Everleigh Social Club

2011-02-17T13:39:00.000-06:00

From Chicago Tribune: Clothing Prices to Rise 10%

2011-02-14T11:20:00.002-06:00

The following article is from The Chicago Tribune Breaking News site. As the economy remains sluggish for many, prices on clothing are expected to rise across the board. This should be taken as an opportunity to break your attachment to "fast fashion". Focus on quality over quantity. Spend your clothing dollar wisely, buying things that can serve multiple roles in your wardrobe.

http://chicagobreakingbusiness.com/2011/02/clothing-prices-to-rise-10-starting-in-spring.html

Clothing prices are expected to rise about 10 percent in coming months, with the biggest increases coming in the second half of the year, said Burt Flickinger III, president of Strategic Resource Group.

Clothing prices have dropped for a decade as tame inflation and cheap overseas labor helped hold down costs. Retailers and clothing makers cut frills and experimented with fabric blends to cut prices during the recession.

But as the world economy recovers and demand for goods rises, a surge in labor and raw materials costs is squeezing retailers and manufacturers who have run out of ways to pare costs.

Cotton has more than doubled in price over the past year, hitting all-time highs. The price of other synthetic fabrics has jumped roughly 50 percent as demand for alternatives and blends has risen.

Brooks Brothers’ wrinkle-free men’s dress shirts now cost $88, up from $79.50. Levi Strauss & Co., Wrangler jeans maker VF Corp., J.C. Penney Co., Nike and designer shoe seller Steve Madden also plan increases.

More specifics on price increases are expected when clothing retailers such as J.C. Penney Co. and Abercrombie & Fitch Co. report financial results this month.

“All of our brands, every single brand, will take some price increases,” said Eric Wiseman, chairman and CEO of VF Corp., whose brands include The North Face, Nautica, Wrangler and Lee. Cotton accounts for half the production cost of jeans, which make up about one-third of VF’s sales, he told investors in November.

Higher costs also will affect how clothes are made. Clothing makers are blending more synthetic fabrics like rayon and designing jeans with fewer beads and other embellishments. Shoppers also will have fewer color choices.

Retailers are trying to figure out whether consumer demand that gave them strong holiday sales will last. The fear is higher prices will nip that budding demand. Stores that cater to low- and middle-income shoppers will have the hardest time passing along price increases.

“We have been so used to deflation for years and years,” said David Bassuk, managing director in the retail practice of AlixPartners. “Customers are going to be surprised.”

Janice Mignanelli of Washington Township, N.J., doesn’t want any surprises.

“‘I’m not going to spend any more than $50 for a pair of jeans,” said Mignanelli, a stay-at-home mom shopping at The Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J., last week. “I’ll just have to cut back on the extras.”

Even affluent shoppers, whose spending has rebounded, may bristle.

“It does give me some pause,” said Jimmy Franco, a 47-year-old publicity executive and fan of Brooks Brothers’ shirts. “Instead of buying two, I may just get one and a pair of socks. There’s a certain amount of money that I’m prepared to spend.”

Cotton prices have jumped to a 150-year-high, rising to $1.90 per pound on Friday, more than double what it was a year ago and just ahead of the $1.89 record hit during the Civil War, according to the International Cotton Advisory Committee.

Cotton prices began soaring in August of 2010 after bad weather cut harvests in major producing countries including China, the U.S., Pakistan and Australia.

Restrictions on exports from India, the world’s second-largest cotton exporter behind China, have also produced cotton shortages. On top of that, worldwide demand for cotton has risen as the global economy improves.

Raw materials account for 25 percent to 50 percent of the cost of producing a garment. Labor ranges from 20 percent to 40 percent, depending on how complicated it is to make, Bassuk said.

On the production side, many Chinese factories that shut down temporarily in the depths of the recession still haven’t returned to capacity. As they ramp up, they’re finding they have to pay workers more because of labor shortages, said John Long, retail strategist at consulting firm Kurt Salmon.

Up until now, retailers have resisted passing along price increases to shoppers by shifting production to lower-cost regions like Vietnam, turning to other materials and absorbing cost increases.

But they’re reaching the limit, according to Kevin Burke, president and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association.

Mom-and-pop stores are most vulnerable because they have less power to negotiate better prices with suppliers than, say, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. But even the world’s largest retailer is feeling the pressure.

“There’s no doubt there may be some price increases that come up, but we don’t want to ever let that be the first answer … that just because cotton prices are up, that we’re automatically going to pass that on to consumers,” said Mike Duke, Wal-Mart’s CEO and president in a recent interview.

Mary Hutchens, owner of Full of Beans, a 25-year-old children’s clothing store in Chevy Chase, Md., worries that price increases could be a death blow. She said she has to discount heavily to stay in business and isn’t sure she’ll be able to pass along the costs.

“Everybody has changed their habits since the recession,” she said. “I’m just trying to hold on.”

From the BBC: Are Work Suits On the Way Out?

2011-02-13T11:02:00.000-06:00

MAGAZINE

11 February 2011 Last updated at 06:10 ET
Are work suits on the way out?
By Tom de Castella
Journalist
On Fridays many dress down, but is the suit in general decline as the standard business wear?
Once upon a time British cities at rush hour were a sea of grey suits, bowler hats and umbrellas.
The contrast with today is stark. It's not just the arrival of women in the workforce that has changed things but the shift away from suits to smart casual, jeans and even in some quarters trainers, T-shirts and flip flops. For both sexes.
A recent poll of 2,000 British workers by online bank First Direct found that only one in 10 employees wears a suit every day, more than a third of staff opt for jeans and only 18% regularly wear a tie.
Earlier this year, UBS created brief uproar when it unveiled a 43-page dress code for staff. It soon backed down in the face of much mockery over its demand for women to wear skin coloured underwear and men to have monthly haircuts.
But there were some unlikely defenders.
The Financial Times's work commentator Lucy Kellaway wrote in her column: "Clad in my sloppy flannel pyjamas and fleece dressing gown, I'm looking again at the UBS booklet and thinking how crisp those lovely shirts look and marvelling at the wisdom of the advice."
Rather than Big Brother as critics had claimed, it "smacks of big sister and a kindly, helpful one at that", she wrote.
However, Claire McCartney of the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development, the professional body for human resources practitioners, says such prescriptive dress codes are becoming increasingly old-fashioned.
"There's definitely a tendency for employers to let their staff feel comfortable in what they are wearing," she says.
"Obviously there will always be limits to what is appropriate. But there is a wider acknowledgement that you don't have to wear a suit to be smart."
Cary Cooper, professor of organisational psychology at Lancaster University Management School, agrees that the world has moved on. Formality is out, and about time too.
"Even in the City, people are wearing suits but no ties. They aren't coming in with jeans but smart casual."
Many professions have been "dress down" for decades but the trend in financial services began on Wall Street with dress down Friday about 15 years ago, he believes." The objective was to let staff get on with paperwork on a Friday and wind down to the weekend. It led people to question why they needed to wear a suit in the first place."
But there'll be a suit hanging there and a tie in a drawer in case they have to go and meet clients, he says. But doesn't this rush towards chinos, shirts and jumpers signal a lowering of the tone and a loss of focus?
"I disagree," says Prof Cooper. "There's no definitive research on the effect of dress on productivity. But I'd be surprised if we didn't find that smart casual saw productivity rise. The more informal an office - as long as it's not slovenly - the better the communication. It's about making the office less stressful."
While the suit may survive, Prof Cooper believes the tie has had its day.
"What is the point of a tie? It's the weirdest thing. If someone from Mars went into an office the first question they'd ask is 'what's that thing round your neck?"
Suits were once the unimaginative uniform of middle-aged men, but today some argue it's the casual look that smacks of blandness. The artists Gilbert & George, synonymous with smart, tailored suits, certainly think so.
In an interview with the Evening Standard in 2009, Gilbert said: "We are more offended by blue jeans than anything else. They are appalling. It's a uniform," before George adding: "It's the fear of standing out. The fear of being different."
And Fiona Allison, head of design at tailors Jermyn Street Design, says the suit has something we jettison at our peril. "What's good about the suit is you get the uniformity of everyone looking smart. And if you look professional you act professional. I think it's a shame more people are going to work in what they wear at the weekend."
Some of her clients have asked for suits that tone down the formality but are still smart. So for a mobile phone operator she designed a smart suit to go with a polo shirt, while staff at a new boutique hotel wear a suit, trainers, and no tie.
Informality is not a given though. The influence of uber-stylish Mad Men, set in a 1960s New York advertising firm, has prompted a nostalgia for a time when men and women dressed smart and sassy.
Women's work wear has definitely got smarter while men's suits - when they choose to wear them - are getting sharper, she says. "We find our clients asking for women to be in a dress rather than shirt and skirt. It's more feminine because it shows off their figure. And men are getting more fussy about suits - nowadays it's normally slimcut like in Mad Men."
Dressing down is the easy option but we risk losing something precious, argues Alex Bilmes, editor of Esquire magazine. And too many workers are mixing up the idea of casual with sloppy, he warns.
"The downside is that everyone dresses scruffy now as if they're about to pop out to Superdrug. People are taking 'relaxed' too far to include wearing baggie jeans and track suit bottoms."
Some professions like waiters, policemen and lawyers still understand the value of looking the part, he says.
"They're not stuck in the past, they know it's reassuring to people to look smart. If you needed a lawyer, went down to chambers to find one wearing shorts, a T-shirt with a logo and battered trainers, are you going to choose him?"
It's not all doom and gloom though. After a malaise in the 80s and 90s, formal styles are back in vogue with a "real buzz" around the traditional tailoring of Savile Row and Jermyn Street, he says. Men hoping to climb the career ladder would be wise to go back to classic English tailoring, he says.
"If you put on a tailored suit and pressed shirt you are putting on a suit of armour. You will walk a bit straighter and taller and people will take you more seriously."

Custom Clothing: A Great Shirt At A Great Price

2011-02-13T03:39:00.001-06:00

Chicago-based internet shirt maker Deo Veritas has recently begun offering a low-priced dress shirt fabric for custom shirts. Starting at just $45, it is a single-ply 50-thread count lightweight poplin only available in white. As their other shirt offerings start at $89 and can easily break $100 with options and customizing, this is a tremendous value in custom shirting. It still includes the hallmarks of custom shirt greatness, including single needle tailoring and several customization options.

The price is great for someone wanting to try out this aspect of custom clothing without a lot of investment. A great white shirt is one of the most essential aspects of any man’s wardrobe, since it goes from interviews to the office to the weekend. From suits to jeans, it is truly multi-purpose. So get one cut just for you at a price cheaper than many off-the-rack brands.

Wham Bam Pam at Windy City Burlesque Fest 2010

2011-02-10T19:43:00.000-06:00

As the Second Annual Windy City Burlesque Festival approaches, here's a performance from Chicago's own Wam Bam Pam at last year's festival.

Candy Striper

2011-02-10T06:29:00.000-06:00

One of the biggest changes in menswear over the last decade is the return to colorful “candy stripe” shirts to a man’s casual and dressy wardrobe. The striped shirt as a business garment had become pretty boring, with its simple blue or burgundy stripes associated with old men and polyester suits. During the first decade of the 21^st century, however, store shelves were filled bold, colorful stripes that begged to be worn to the office, to dinner or just around town.

The foremost example of these shirts is the Jermyn Street-based Thomas Pink. Named after the traditional British hunting jacket, Thomas Pink became one of the heralds of the return of the candy striped shirt. Available in a variety of collar and cuff options, the shirts also helped make the spread collar and French cuff so popular in boardrooms or on the street. While Thomas Pink has an amazing variety of offerings available for perusal on-line, The Thomas Pink shop in the State Street Macy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s) is well stocked with shirts and accessories.

Of course, the price tag on a Thomas Pink is a bit steep to some. For those looking to incorporate a pop of color and pattern into their work wardrobe, the ever-present offerings of Van Heusen and Geoffrey Beene may be friendlier to your budget. Most are button-cuff and the spread of the collar is not so extreme, but the color offerings are just as varied.

When worn to the office, tie selection is critical. The bold stripes or checks of the shirt should serve as the primary focus of your ensemble. Solid ties are easiest to match up, but pattern or striped ties are also possible with a bit of thought. Striped ties should have much larger stripes (or at least stripes that are quite a bit different in thickness and composition). Small patterns are just as easy as solids to match up. With suits or jackets, keep them pretty plain for ease. Solids or simple stripes serve to frame the colorful shirts and ties you’ll be wearing.

Custom Clothing: A (Very) Brief Primer

2011-02-05T03:22:00.001-06:00

Menswear can be divided into three categories, with regard to its manufacture or origin. The first is Ready-to-Wear or Off-the-Rack. The term pertains to clothing bought in a finished state. Since it encompasses everything from a designer label suit to a t-shirt bought in the bargain bin of Wal-Mart, nearly everyone has bought something in this category at one time or another. The positive aspects of this are generally price related, as the wide availability of similar items allows the consumer to acquire items relatively cheaply. It is also convenient, as the item is already made and can be selected, purchased and worn immediately. The negative aspects tend to be a decline in quality in line with price. Simply put, a cheap shirt may cost you a few dollars but it will not look or wear as nicely as a more expensive option. The other negative can be a lack of options. If you really want a navy jacket with peak lapels and a ticket pocket but can only find notch lapels and no ticket pocket, there isn’t much you can do.

The second option is Made-to-Measure or MtM. Made-to-Measure involves taking measurements and then using those measurements to adjust a pre-made pattern. The result is a garment that fits better than one off-the-rack but with less expense than a bespoke garment. Many men dabble in MtM and it does suit a variety of needs. The biggest advantage is the ability to fit “problem areas” that nearly all men have. Most men have a feature that causes them some headaches. Even a gym rat may find his neck or shoulders don’t fit the arm holes of a typical shirt. Whatever it is, an MtM piece can work wonders. Another big advantage is a greater degree of personalization. Monograms, linings, ticket pockets, lapels and more can all be customized. On the whole, MtM is more expensive than buying off the rack but the growing availability of MtM via the Internet and inside many mall-based retailers is causing MtM to be highly comparable in cost to off-the-rack.

The final option is Bespoke, or truly custom (not just customized) clothing. Bespoke clothing is the pinnacle of menswear and the height of the tailor’s art. Once reserved for the truly wealthy, Bespoke is also seeing a widespread availability as Generation Y re-discovers the elegance of a more refined wardrobe that many Baby Boomers and their off-spring lost in learning to “express themselves” in jeans and tees. Even with its increasing availability, Bespoke is quite a bit more expensive than the other options. It is also not for someone in a rush, as the wait time to receive your garment can be weeks or months. For both Made-to-Measure and Bespoke clothing, the quality in materials and construction is of extremely outstanding quality. Even more so than Made-to-Measure, Bespoke is by its very nature defined by the client’s specifications. From an amazing fit to your choice of details, Bespoke can even encompass your lifestyle habits. Addicted to your Blackberry or I-Phone? Your tailor can build custom pockets into your coats, jacket or pants.

Chicago has long been a center for textiles and fashion. It is home to many practitioners of the tailor’s art. While some are great at alterations, those that create shirts, suits and more for their clients are incredible artists. The above definitions and explanations are mere capsules as I explore a few of the custom clothing options in Chicago and on-line. More will follow shortly.

Winter Style: Top Coats and Car Coats

2011-02-02T01:49:00.000-06:00

Winter in Chicago is always unpredictable. Temperatures can fluctuate between a seemingly balmy 40 degrees to sub-zero wind chill in the negative teens! This week’s snowstorm might be the third worst in a century. In general, the winter of 2010-2011 has been brutal. If you have a great coat to get you through the winter, you’re already one step ahead of the game. If your coat is a parka or something better served on a ski slope, you might consider picking up a top coat.

The top coat is a tried and true classic that is an ideal urban companion during the winter months. Available in a variety of fabrics, wool, wool-cashmere and cashmere tend to be the most common. A parka is great for extended outdoor activities, but most are quite bulky and wearing one over a suit or sport coat for the office is ill-fitting, binding and just plain odd looking. The claim of warmth is important but the drawbacks of ill-fit and general awkwardness are not to be considered frivolous. The top coat is designed to fit over a jacket, so it is ideal for layering. Its length varies from mid-thigh (typically referred to as a car coat) to mid-calf, providing excellent warmth and wind resistance walking down a winter street or waiting on a train platform for the El.

The shorter car coat is extremely popular and quite versatile. Able to cover a suit or sport coat for work, it is still short enough to allow you to drive comfortably. The City Coat below is currently a great steal offered by Decatur-based Bachrach. It is all wool with an interior wallet pocket and two slash pockets for your hands. On sale for under $100, it a bargain that will see some use in the remaining days of winter and be ready for chilly weather from next November on. As it is on sale at the end of the season, colors are limited but the brown pictured is dark enough to be surprisingly versatile. It looks smart with greys, navy and can be dressed down with khakis or denim. About the only common color that may not match well is a black suit but black elements work well.

Although designed to be worn over a suit or jacket, poor fit can occur with any off-the-rack garment. Sebastien Grey is a custom clothier that has locations in several of the Halo men’s spas including the Loop and Lincoln Park. A camel-colored car coat or top coat is truly a timeless piece. A camel or tan coat blends seamlessly into any wardrobe, working with any color or style. It can be worn out to a dinner date or a pub run. It can be worn with a suit to an office or a court date. It can be dressed down with jeans and a sweater for a quick lunch run on a chilly Saturday afternoon. The sartorial artists at Sebastien Grey can help you build a coat that will truly meet your needs. A selection of linings, fabrics, cuts and other options are available. Like many custom garments, your coat can have special touches like unique pockets for your cell phone, blackberry or MP-3. It can have a funky lining. Your name or monogram sewn into the coat is a standard selection that just looks ever so satisfying when you first see it. It can have sleeve buttons that adjust for a better fit, which can be ever so useful when driving or wearing heavy gloves. Sebastien Grey coats start at $799 and includes a number of fabric choices and personalization options.

The longer top coat or overcoat still has its devotees. It tops off a power suit like no other winter garment. Its length ensures maximum warmth when the cold weather hits the city, especially the biting wind. You’ll be grateful to have one while standing on the El platform for your morning commute. It isn’t as versatile with casual use, but it’s still a worthwhile purchase (especially if you have a business dress code at the office). As always, camel is extremely versatile but charcoal runs a close second. The piece listed below is from Ted’s Clothiers and is made by Jacob Siegel. It’s a wool-cashmere blend and retails for under $500, pretty typical for its kind but end of season sale prices are in effect right now and you can find some amazing deals if you do a little bit of digging.

Chicago Burlesque Events

2011-02-01T18:32:00.000-06:00

Congratulations to Donna Touch for winning the votes to compete at Viva Las Vegas 14!

Style Upgrade: Valentine's Day

2011-01-31T09:08:00.001-06:00

The last several occasions I have had to eat dinner with my girl at a relatively upscale suburban establishment, I have noticed a disturbing trend. Too many guys in their late-twenties and thirties seem to have given up on the idea of dressing up for a night out. They are letting their beautiful wives and girlfriends head out to dinner and drinks wearing gorgeous cocktail dresses or similar frocks while they wear un-ironed khakis and a boring button-down or a golf shirt. I’m sorry guys, but that is a pitiful effort for a casual work place, never mind a romantic night out with your special lady. The good news is that with only a little effort, you can step up your style while letting your date’s beauty shine through. With Valentine’s Day looming, take this opportunity to add another element in crafting the perfect evening for your date.

The first thing to keep in mind when selecting suitable attire for a special evening is that you should appear composed and appropriate but allow your date to be the center of attention. Think of yourself as the “frame” of a fine work of art (your date). To that end, a suit is always an excellent option. While a dark navy or charcoal suit is great, a black suit truly excels at nighttime events, especially when dim lights and candles are involved. A black suit is best for evening social events, especially with simple and elegant elements. A white shirt and simple pink tie with a black suit (as worn by Nick “Mister Mariah Carey” Cannon below) can be just a bit more subtle and is always dapper, but especially so on Valentine's Day.

A more casual option is one preferred by many younger aspiring gentlemen, the vest. Often seen being used in the place of a sport coat, the vest can be worn with a shirt, tie and slacks for special occasions that are less formal. If your Valentine’s night involves a party among friends or something cozier, this is a great option. For very casual events, the slacks might be replaced with very dark denim. While vests are available in a variety of fabrics, satin or dark wool are probably best.

The final option I will put forward is one that many guys will find a bit out there. The velvet blazer is an amazing addition to any man’s wardrobe. It has no place in the office but looks amazing in casual and slightly dressy environments. In a dark color like wine, black or chocolate, it pairs equally well with an open collared shirt and dark navy jeans as it does with tailored slacks and a tie. Girls love to see a confident man in a jacket like this and it gives a guy a suave air. They are great at holiday parties, so stash one in your closet for the winter months.

Style Inspiration: Joe Pantoliano

2011-01-26T11:53:00.012-06:00

Joe “Joey Pants” Pantoliano is a well-known and talented actor, spokesperson for depression sufferers, cigar enthusiast and hat devotee. While his characters run the gamut from well-dressed mobsters to scruffy workmen, his personal style is a great mixture of casual and high-end pieces. Joe Pantoliano is a great example of being sophisticated and casual in one’s dress. How does he do it? Here are two quick tips on how to pull it off. First, Joe recognizes the elegance of a great hat. A short-brimmed fedora or driver’s cap lends a little casual elegance to even a hoodie and t-shirt, as seen below. The fedora is a nicer alternative to the more common baseball cap. If he were wearing a ball cap with his hoodie, he'd be just another slob in line at Starbucks. The fedora gives him a funky, creative vibe.

Second, Joey Pants knows how to wear denim with dressier pieces. Where many of his contemporaries in the baby boomer generation brought casual pieces like jeans to the forefront of American style at the cost of losing the elegance of more formal clothing, Joe Pantoliano shows how to blend the two together. In the example below, he keeps his denim dark and has pops of color in his tie and pocketsquare. His square-framed glasses show his age and give him a hint of seriousness. His jaunty hat is a nice addition that is both timeless and hip. While worn on the red carpet, this ensemble could be worn at a casual office or to a dinner date.

If you take anything away from the style of this amazing actor, it's that it is possible to look great while being casual and comfortable. Invest in a great lid and you'll be halfway there.

Chicago Burlesque Events

2011-01-25T15:48:00.000-06:00

Style Inspiration: Jack Vettriano

2011-01-22T02:48:00.004-06:00

Jack Vettriano's work is everywhere, from framed posters at Target to fine art museums. Not only do his paintings evoke a bygone era of great style, bold living and breathless nights, but the artist's personal appearance is timeless and elegant. You can't go wrong with one of his works hanging in your bachelor pad as an inspiration to live a stylish life.

Men's Jewelry: Tie Bars, Collar Pins and Cufflinks

2011-01-20T14:41:00.013-06:00

Mention the word “jewelry” to most guys and you are likely to conjure images of earrings, gold or platinum chains, rings and any number of body piercings. While some of these are fine for the workplace, some of these definitely require some consideration when wearing them to the office or shop. That’s a conversation for a later time. Instead, let’s talk about three pieces that are great wardrobe enhancements.

First up is the collar bar or collar pin. This seldom seen number is worn with a collared shirt and necktie. It connects the right and left collars and goes under the tie knot. The collar bar helps provide symmetry by keeping the collar flaps steady and helps push the tie-knot up for great presentation. It should go without saying that these collar bars are never worn with button-down collars or tab-collars.

There are three basic types of collar bars. The first is seldom seen in 2011. It is a bar with screw-on ends that are worn with specially constructed collars that have eyelets for the collar bar ends. As this version requires a special collar, it is most often seen on bespoke shirts but some urban clothing labels have occasionally put out pre-made shirts that feature collar bars.

The second version is designed to pierce a collar with a pin on either side of the collar bar. This version is rarely seen as the pins quickly destroy the collar with multiple punctures. The third version is the most commonly seen in 2011. It uses a clip on each end to grasp, but not pierce, each collar flap.

The next piece is one that has been quite popular for the last few years. The tie bar has waxed and waned in popularity over the years, never quite going out of style. It is a spring-loaded clip that clips one’s tie to one’s shirt. Placement of the clip varies by preference and necessity. I have known a manager of a print shop who wore a very long clip to ensure his tie did not pull him into the printing press. In general, the clip serves a more decorative function. It should be worn somewhere above one’s jacket closure and I find it looks best slightly askew. I definitely do NOT recommend wearing both a tie bar and a collar bar, as that would be more than a tad fussy. Available in a seemingly endless variety of metals, designs and finishes, a simple design will give you the most flexibility. The shirt and tie-clip pictured above are from Indochino.

The last piece is one most men have seen on a fairly regular basis, the cufflink. The cufflink is descended from the strings used to tie a man’s shirt cuff closed several centuries ago. Not too many decades ago, the cufflink was once exceedingly common, with few men’s dress shirts having button cuffs. Of course, now that they are no longer the standard cuff closure just gives you an opportunity to use them to express yourself. Of all the pieces in a man’s jewelry wardrobe, the cufflink has the ability to be nearly anything you need it to be. It can be silly, serious, subversive or even nostalgic.

Whether its simple silk knots, monogrammed silver ovals or the legal profession inspired examples above from Cufflinks.com, having a few cufflinks at your disposal will keep your wardrobe unique. A simple white shirt with French cuffs and a great set of links make any suit that much more “you”. My final piece of advice is that you should limit your jewelry to 3 items. A wedding ring definitely counts. So do earrings or a wristwatch. As I suggested above, don’t combine a collar bar with a tie bar. You may be tempted to showcase your collection of jewelry, but a little restraint will keep you with the three C’s: Classic, Clean and Contemporary.

Style Inspiration: Hat Ads From the Golden Era

2011-01-19T20:58:00.002-06:00

During the early Twentieth Century, hat wearing was not only common but expected on a daily basis among American men. In addition to a very specific etiquette regarding hat wearing, it was an excellent way for men to express themselves. The fedoras, trilbies, porkpies and other brimmed hats allowed for a man to show his personality in subtle but profound ways. The snap of a brim conveyed a sense of seriousness or whimsy. The style of bow or thickness of ribbon showed sophistication or simplicity.

Windy City Burlesque Fest 2011

2011-01-16T13:17:00.000-06:00

More information will be coming shortly. Mark your calender.

Jurassic 5's Swing Set

2011-01-13T15:10:00.001-06:00

Something new mixed with something classic. Great inspiration.

Style on a Budget: Stacy Adams

2011-01-12T22:52:00.002-06:00

I have a confession to make. Thanks to spending my formative years in Catholic school, I have a weakness for Stacy Adams shoes. Yes, I have much pricier footwear that gets pulled out for big events but my workhorse shoes tend to be my Stacy Adams cap toes. More importantly, my “fun” shoes tend to have the Stacy Adams logo. In a challenging economy, I like to take advantage of interesting footwear trends without breaking my bank.

The Stacy Adams Madison is a pretty simple cap toe oxford. Available in colors from the utilitarian (brown, black, cordovan) to the extreme (lime green), it has remained a staple in the wardrobes of men seeking a stylish and budget-friendly dress shoe for decades. Let me be clear. There are more expensive shoes with softer leathers or finer details, but for a good looking shoe under $100, the Madison is my recommendation.

Stacy Adams has a pretty extensive collection of footwear, ranging from casual boots to dress shoes. They are a great source for picking up an unusual or trendy shoe without a large outlay of cash. From tan and black spectators to a summery pair of brogues, most of their footwear retails under $180 and often on sale. You can peruse their offerings at Zappos or Stacy Adams Online. Try something new. Try something funky. Back in the hey-day of the swing revival, my first pair of spectators was a pair of Stacy Adams Daytons. I found they were fun and soon enough the spectator was my signature shoe (even to this day)!

Payback. On the Rocks.

2011-01-12T10:59:00.001-06:00

Ursula Undress Presents, "PAYBACK. ON THE ROCKS." from Matt Odom on Vimeo.

The above video is a wonderful little piece of vintage inspired striptease. It stars Atlanta burlesque sensation Ursula Undress and is directed by Matt Odom. It does feature vintage lingerie, so view at your own discretion.

Help out a lovely Chicago performer!

2011-01-05T18:45:00.002-06:00

Last year, I made a plea on behalf of Chicago Burlesque performer Donna Touch as she attempted to secure a spot at the 2010 Viva Las Vegas burlesque competition. Well, the 2011 VLV voting is underway and the lovely Donna Touch is once again asking for your vote. Having seen her perform in person, I can tell you she is an outstanding burlesque starlet with some clever costumes. She does not disappoint. So please check out www.donnatouch.com for more information on this wonderful performer and follow the link to vote her in to Viva Las Vegas!

After a long hiatus. . .

2011-01-05T18:40:00.003-06:00

After a long hiatus, I am back. The time away has seen a lot of changes personally and professionally. Not the least of which is my new occupation as a stay-at-home dad. My interest in living a stylish life with a connection to classic, fine living has not diminished and I am happy to bring you what I hope is a fresh viewpoint. As always, please feel free to contact me at ortega76@gmail.com with any questions, concerns or feedback.

Thank you for reading!

Sal O.

Music Review: Latino Rockabilly!

2010-08-13T05:51:00.000-05:00

Mention “rockabilly” to most people not involved in the scene and you may get references to ‘80s rockers the Stray Cats, hot rods and tattoos. What surprises many people is the large number of Latinos involved in the scene. Not just in the Southwest, but as far north as my native Chicago, you will find Latinos embracing rockabilly music and style with their own take on the sub-culture. No element of the sub-culture shows the extensive Latino influence of the rockabilly scene like the music. His-Panic Stomp Girls 2010 is a wonderful introduction to the music of Latino Rockabilly. Best of all, it is available for free via http://hispanicstomp.blogspot.com/!

The album is 14 tracks of female-dominated rockabilly, all with different degrees of Latin flavor. The names of the bands are pretty fantastic, ranging from The Sparkles to The Cosmic Vampires to Los Yabbadabbadoos. The music ranges from horror-tinged psycho-billy to guitar heavy surf. The Latin influence on the music ranges from Spanish lyrics to maracas as percussion. The variety is incredibly diverse, with something for every taste. My favorite is the very unique take on “Chattanooga Choo Choo” by El Trio Chikiboom.

This album is a fine introduction to a sometimes forgotten segment of Rockabilly. The download includes 14 tracks (MP3 format) plus labels and jewel box inserts. It also includes several pin-up photos of the young ladies involved with the album. There are samplers from past years available for download, so add some to your MP3 player for the duration of the summer. They are a great soundtrack for the remaining summer days, especially for that last road trip before Labor Day.

Chicago Burlesque by Vaudezilla

2010-08-09T15:41:00.001-05:00

Shave and a Haircut

2010-08-03T13:09:00.003-05:00

Just a quick head's up. This Sunday is MANBQUE.COM's Hangover Shave Sunday. It's a simple deal. $20 gets you a haircut or straight razor shave with a beer and a burger. It's a simple way to relax, unwind and enjoy a little "guy time". If you find yourself in the city on Sunday afternoon, this will be a great way to unwind.

http://www.manbque.com

Style Upgrade: Casual Jackets III

2010-07-30T17:18:00.002-05:00

Bomber jackets and café racer jackets are not only offered in leather. One of the most versatile jackets ever offered is Alpha Industries MA-1 bomber jacket. Alpha Industries is one of several manufacturers who make the MA-1 for the United States armed forces. The MA-1 was first developed in the 1950’s to replace the leather bomber; the jacket is made of high quality nylon for weather resistance and light weight. It is an extremely sturdy jacket, but be wary of the cheap imitators. It has hand-warmer pockets and a zippered sleeve pocket with pen slots on the left sleeve (perfect for an MP-3 player or cell-phone) that is easily accessed with one hand. The jacket reverses to a high visibility orange, intended for survival situations but I know of some people who have worn the orange side out for both fun and safety (like riding a bike at night). The MA-1 is functional and durable, but is not a jacket I would recommend for anything but the most casual of weekends. It’s a great “chore” jacket or is quite at home at friendly a pub on a cold autumn night. It can be purchased at numerous Army Surplus stores or on-line, usually for around $150. It is also available in several colors, with the olive drab being my favorite.

If you want something a little sleeker, try Magnoli Clothiers Bauer Café Racer, made of waxed cotton. Waxed cotton is cotton that has been impregnated with paraffin wax. Waxed cotton is lightweight, wind proof and waterproof. It was in widespread use among sailors for centuries, only replaced by nylon in the post-WWII era. Magnoli Clothiers offers this café racer in black, dark brown and light brown. The jacket has gusseted, zippered sleeves for a snug fit and a zippered pocket on the left sleeve. While not as insulated as the MA-1, the Bauer would allow you to remain dry during the wet spring weather often found in Chicago. Like other offerings from Magnoli, the jacket is assembled to your measurements to ensure a great fit. It is under $500 and is a bit more subtle than the MA-1.

If the working class look of a biker appeals to you, then Star Motorcycles take on leather and denim offers a very different but very cool take on jackets. Leather sleeves are mated to a denim jacket, both are distressed for a worn-in look and feel. At only $150, this jacket exudes a rugged air that will keep you comfortable on weekends that call for jeans and cold beers.

http://www.magnoliclothiers.com

http://www.shopalphaindustries.com

http://www.starmotorcycles.com

These jackets offer a great alternative to the leather motorcycle-style jackets for the fall. Both jackets can be layered for added warmth, but neither has a removable liner. Both will keep you comfortable in style during your fall weekend outings.

Style Upgrade: Casual Jackets II

2010-07-29T08:04:00.004-05:00

For some, the classic bomber jacket is the definitive leather jacket. First coming to prominence among World War II pilots, returning soldiers brought bomber jackets home to wear while riding their motorcycles. It is possible to buy authentic reproductions of World War II and Korea era bomber jackets but the style has countless variants from a number of manufacturers. As the jacket was designed to keep a flight crew warm in flight, most jackets featured a wool or fur collar. Of course, many opt for a lay-down collar made of leather. A bomber jacket tends to be slightly roomier than the café racer jacket, and almost all of them have a removable liner.

Countless bomber jackets are seen every day on the streets of Chicago from Fall to Spring. It can be tricky to wear as it brings to mind a certain bullwhip wielding archeologist, especially when paired with a brimmed hat. Many wearers resent the association but some welcome the image of a rugged adventurer. The Jacket above is offered by Schott, a longtime manufacturer of outerwear. The fur collar and heavy liner offer great cold weather protection. The jacket is a looser fit than many motorcycle jackets and is more common among Baby Boomers than Gen Xers. It’s a bit more conservative than the café racer or a cruising motorcycle jacket. It’s a great choice for a Father’s Day present or a guy whose taste leans to the conservative.

Schott also produces the definitive motorcycle jacket, the Perfecto. The Perfecto was worn by Marlon Brando in the movie "The Wild One". Ever since then, it has been the basis for countless knock-offs and homages. The Perfecto is available with several variants, the one above is a limited edition vintage edition with old-fashioned details (like vintage hardware and a cotton liner).

Both of these gems are great examples of classic leather that have a place in your closet for casual, active weekends. You don't need a motorcycle to embrace your inner rebel or to embrace the an element of rugged individualism. These jackets are ideal for days off, weekends and they travel pretty well. They are great at getting your weekend errands done and keep you looking great while doing so. And if they inspire you to get on a bike and ride, well that's even better.

http://www.schott.com

Style Upgrade: Casual Jackets I

2010-07-27T16:59:00.002-05:00

Mid-summer can be a strange time when it comes to clothing. Store windows are full of their fall selections, while the outside temperatures hover in the 90’s. It can be a bit disconcerting to shop for sweaters while wearing shorts and sandals. Nevertheless, now is a great time to start taking care of your fall wardrobe needs. If you already have a great overcoat for business wear, this fall may be the time to pick up a great casual jacket. A timeless addition to your closet might be the leather jacket. A leather jacket can be a flexible, stylish weekend jacket. Leather is a great material that has good thermal retention properties and is a good defense against wind and water. In cool weather, it is perfect over a shirt or tee. In colder weather, a light insulator like a sweater can take you into early winter. I like to think of a leather jacket as armor against the modern world. A classic, functional jacket will give you more satisfaction than a delicate, fashionable one.

Cheap leather jackets can be had for as little as $99. Cheap leather is typically made of lesser quality cow hide that is constructed in a patchwork and dyed to a uniform color. Better quality leather jackets are made from a single piece of uniformly treated cow-hide. A cheaper jacket may or may not have some desirable features like a zip-out liner or quality zippers (like the YKK brand). In addition to cow leather, jackets may be made of goat, horse or buckskin. Each has very different properties in responding to the elements, its care or its feel. You’ll most likely be dealing with cow-hide.

Leather jackets come in a variety of styles, from full-length dusters to car coats to a variety of jacket styles. The most common jacket styles are the bomber jacket, after the style worn by World War II pilots, and the endless variety of motorcycle jackets. It is modern updates of the latter that I am exploring today. In the last decade, motorcycle jackets have seen a turn away from bomber-style jackets or "Perfecto" style motorcycle jackets and toward the clean look of the café racer. The typical café racing jacket has a 1” tab collar, often with a throat latch. It is a snug fitting jacket, with high armholes and zippers on the sleeves to adjust the forearm fit. Some are plain, but simple racing stripes are a common design element. The clean, simple look of the jacket is an ideal partner of the modern interpretation of classic menswear that has defined the last few years.

Magnoli Clothiers assembles made-to-measure leather jackets, allowing you to customize your jacket as you see fit. The Hero Jacket (above) is available in several colors, and in new or pre-distressed finishes. When offered a choice between dark brown and black, I usually recommend dark brown. It is a color that is every bit as versatile as black with the added benefit of a rich patina that will develop as the jacket ages. If you ride a motorcycle or scooter, this jacket is looks good and will move with you since it will be assembled to your measurements. Even if you just wear it on the weekends to the pub, it will withstand the wear and tear of urban living. It runs just under $500, but can last a lifetime of adventures and outings.

Black Magic Apparel is a little known company that makes leather jackets for hardcore motorcycle riders. They are the source for the jackets and vests for the outstanding FX series Sons of Anarchy. As you can imagine, the jackets preferred by such demanding users are nothing short of outstanding. They are marvelous examples of craftsmanship and design. They are available with a choice of flight suit lining color and two collar options (full collar or 1” tab). The flight suit lining adds a great deal of wind and water resistance while keeping a breathable layer near the skin or your base layer. The pockets are zippered and the sleeves offer zippered adjustment. It is also just under $500.

While $500 might seem a bit excessive for a jacket, like a suit or topcoat a quality leather jacket can last you for decades. If your personal style leans to the unusual, may I suggest the Chicago punk’s choice since the 1980’s, the Chicago Police Motorcycle Jacket. It is a heavy duty jacket, geared for colder weather with a heavy lining and kidney warmer lining in the lower back. While once seen almost exclusively on high-school and college kids, I see this jacket largely on thirty-somethings these days. This jacket is functional and ages quite well. It is also a steal at $160 from The Alley.

No matter what your particular style or needs, a good “modern” motorcycle jacket can offer you fashion and function for your fall weekends. An ivy or driver’s cap will keep your head warm. Whether you wear jeans or khakis, tees or shirts, the motorcycle jacket is made for casual outings or labor-intensive endeavors. Limit its night-time wear to pubs, barbeques and parties at friends that involve bringing a case of beer. Don’t wear it to formal occasions or to a conservative office.

http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/

http://www.blackmagicapparel.com/

http://www.thealley.com/

Burlesque + Film

2010-07-26T13:34:00.002-05:00

Walk on the Wild Side from Callie Lipkin on Vimeo.

Callie Lipkin has produced a great little film that showcases the Vaudezilla performers during the Blue Bayou run. Check it out.

Mad Men Season 4 begins Sunday!

2010-07-23T16:59:00.004-05:00

Just a reminder to all you Mad Men fans. This Sunday, July 25, begins the new season of the AMC drama that all stylish, intelligent, beautiful people love. So make yourself a double martini and tune in on Sunday night. If you have company, print some Mad Men themed coasters from Chicago-based Second City soiree.

http://www.secondcitysoiree.com/index/tag/mad-men

The RIGHT way to do skulls and crossbones

2010-07-20T16:51:00.003-05:00

Skulls have become the default symbol of the thirty-somethings around me. I see crystal-studded skulls on tees, embroidered skulls on jeans and tons of skull tattoos. Heck, I have a couple of Dia de los Muertos sugar skulls tattooed on my forearm. While skulls have had a number of associations ranging from eternal life to doom and poison, the tiny skulls in the Carrot and Gibbs necktie pictured above might just be the thing you need to inject your hipster attitude into your wardrobe. Far more subtle than that Affliction shirt you wore last weekend, this is a wonderfully subversive piece of clothing that would be great for anything short of a board meeting. Pick one up at your local Formally Modern store.

Summer Weddings

2010-07-12T14:39:00.004-05:00

Summertime is a unique season, especially for Midwesterners. Having dug ourselves out of winter's ice and snow, we embrace the warmer temperatures with a passion. We covet this time of the year in a way that is alien to our fellow Americans that dwell year-round in a more pleasant climate. At the same time, we simply loathe to be uncomfortable in the ever-present humidity. We shed layers and often good taste in the search for comfort in the muggy days of July and August. Many times this comes back to haunt us.

Case in point is the advice a friend solicited from me regarding an upcoming wedding. As July and August are common months to hold nuptials, the question many men face is "What should I wear to this thing?" Unfortunately, there is never an easy answer. It really varies by wedding location, the bridal couple's taste and the tone of the event. To be specific, my friend is attending a wedding at the end of July. The afternoon ceremony will be short and held in an outdoor courtyard. The reception follows immediately in an adjacent ballroom with the courtyard open for smokers or fresh air. The wedding is taking place in a rather old-fashioned country club on the North Shore.

My buddy asked his friends what they were wearing. Many answered polo shirts and khakis. While this may be comfortable, it is probably far too casual. A polo shirt and khakis might be great if you were playing a round of golf at the club but the bride might be shooting you a dirty look behind your back. I understand the thought process. The polo has become the default shirt for anything requiring some semblance of dressiness. "The shirt is breathable and has a collar. I wear it to work, so I can wear it to a wedding or a funeral! And I don't have to wear a tie and be uncomfortable!" That's usually the thought process of my fellow male wedding attendees.

I often maintain that a suit is for more than interviews. When the idea of even a tropical weight wool jacket in 90-plus degree heat seems insane, take a cue from dandies of yesteryear. Try a cotton suit. The fabric of a cotton suit is breathable and relaxed. With today's natural tailoring, the suit can be a little more relaxed than your business suit. The fabric will wrinkle and wear, but it just adds to the charm of a cotton suit. A light color like khaki is timeless and helps you stand out in a sea of sweating black suit wearers or under-dressed golf shirt devotees.

So my friend took my advice and ordered a khaki cotton suit and is expecting delivery in a day or two. Simple black or brown lace-ups and a subtly-striped lavender shirt will complete his outfit. He is opting out of a tie, and that seems fine. I always advise carrying one in case you find you need it when going tie-less. His girlfriend is happy that he will look great and he is happy he will be comfortable.

The cotton suit is versatile, finding use on casual Fridays or church services. In fact, separating the jacket and wearing it with denim on weekend outings or street festivals or sushi dates gives you a great deal of options whether your shirt is a casual button-down, a polo or a tee. You can some great cotton suits off the rack for some great prices. Perry Ellis and Sean John have offerings in a number of seasonal colors. Made-to-measure internet sensation Indochino can turn out a suit in 2 weeks and offer free delivery.

A Personal Plea on Behalf of a Friend

2010-06-23T22:24:00.002-05:00

This post has nothing to do with fashion or style. It is a personal post. Recently, a childhood friend found that she needed a kidney transplant. She is currently in the Mayo Clinic in Minnesota and has only a small chance of finding a donor. If you or anyone you know has ever considered donating a kidney, call DEB DICKE-HENSLIN toll free at 1-866-249-3519.

She will have some questions for you and answer ANY questions you have. Then if she thinks you are a canidate she will send you a box with blood tubes in it. You will need to get your blood drawn any where you like and then you will send the box back. EVERYTHING is paid for by her insurance, there is no cost to you at all. If you are just curious about what a donation entails, call Deb. You aren't committing to anything and you may be saving the life of a wonderful woman.

Style Upgrade: No More T-Shirts!

2010-06-16T11:06:00.006-05:00

I used to have a terrible addiction. One that I share with many men my age. I was addicted to the t-shirt. It's hard to pass them up with the myriad designs and fabrics that are available. Moreover, they are great at boldly stating my political beliefs or sarcasm or my appreciation of tattoo shops. Seriously, it's difficult to not find great designs at Target or any number of mall retailers. But the time has come to break the habit. T-shirts are a young man's vice. Devotion to them is a sad attempt to cling to one's youth. And by youth, I mean immaturity. T-shirts are a garment for the immature.

No, I am not advocating never wearing t-shirts again. They do have their uses. They are fine for chores around the house. I couldn't imagine attending a football game in buttondown shirt or spending a day at the local beach in a sportcoat. What I am advocating is growing up and losing the skulls, the logo covered Miskeen and the slogan spouting tees. I am also advocating careful use of the local sports team tee and the one from your alma mater.

Try solid or simple patterned tees that pair well with other elements of your wardrobe. Think about layering tees that can be put under sweaters or casual shirts. A solid-black tee and a pair of dark denim jeans can take you to a number of weekend destinations. Try pairing a shades of blue with an open-collar and khakis for a weekend brunch. You can still feel free to break out the White Sox tee when attending the game, watching it on your television or moving your buddy to his new apartment.

Try out this tip in the following way. Buy a 3-pack of decent quality solid color tees. For one week, wear them in place of a screenprint tee. Black is my favorite choice for this experiment, as I have gotten a lot of positive feedback from women who like a guy in tasteful denim and a simple black tee. And control your impulses when you drive past the Harley-Davidson store or Hot Topic or even Armani Exchange.

Father's Day Endorsement

2010-06-03T11:38:00.003-05:00

With Father's Day coming up in a few weeks, every retailer of masculine goods from clothes to cars is advertising the perfect Father's Day gift. I find that the best Father's Day gifts are practical but something the recipient may not have picked for themselves. Whether they are a lawyer or a craftsman, every man can benefit from a small pocketknife. A Swiss Army Knife is the epitome of the small pocket knife and they have stepped into the 21st century with the Swiss Flash 2GB Alox knife. It is small enough to fit on your key ring and offers a few key tools to get you through the day's emergencies. In addition to a small knife blade, nailfile with screwdriver tip and scissors, a removable 2GB USB flash drive is a part of this small knife. For around $40, this is little gadget can be a real lifesaver and will definitely be a very appreciated gift. Victorinox Swiss Army Knives can be purchased at a number of retailers or at their website.

Upcoming Burlesque Performances

2010-05-25T14:06:00.001-05:00

Burlesque-A-Pades

2010-05-25T14:03:00.000-05:00

Coming this July 29 to Martyrs in Chicago is the fantastic Burlesque-a-pades, starring the World Famous Pontani Sisters, Kitten DeVille, Melody Sweets and the ever-fantastic host, Murray Hill. Kitten DeVille is my personal favorite, all-time burlesque sensation and any chance to see her shimmy is one to seize. More information is forthcoming at www.burlesqueapades.com or at www.martyrslive.com.

Quick tip on ties

2010-05-19T15:19:00.000-05:00

For a lot of guys, a shirt and tie is the required clothing for work. This level of formality is found in a number of industries from retail workers to customer service call centers to hospitality industry. Some men become disenchanted with the vanilla look this dress code quickly embodies. Even if you don't fall into this category, the following is a great, quick method of injecting a little fun or whimsy into your wardrobe. Try pairing a grosgrain belt with a simple patterned or striped tie that features the same color. While this can quickly become overdone if used too often, this pairing is fine on occasion during the spring and summer.

Striped regimental tie by Mountain and Sackett

Grosgrain belt by Ralph Lauren

Music Video: "Gentleman" by Lou Bega

2010-05-16T14:35:00.002-05:00

In the 90's, Lou Bega burst onto the pop charts with upbeat fusions of mambo, hip-hop and r&b. His dress evoked a deco-Miami of the early twentieth century or pastoral European countrysides. With summer almost here, I constantly dream of being able to pull off an all-white ensemble but the realities of grime and urban living prevent me from doing so. Still, Lou Bega's outfit is simple and looks back to a more elegant time. Plus, an upbeat song is great for a lazy spring or summer day.

Quick tips on shirts

2010-05-16T14:13:00.001-05:00

Bold shirt colors continue to be fashionable in casual and business circles. Bold shirts demand stylish accessories and modern details. The classic blue striped shirt gets an injection of power with a wide spread-collar, French cuffs and a thickly-knotted red tie. Cufflinks look great under a jacket and will add a classy finishing touch, especially for meetings with important clients or colleagues.

A few other tips about dress shirts in general.

Make sure they are crisply ironed. If you can’t handle the job yourself, have them laundered and hung. Don’t have them boxed, as this will leave a crease across your chest.
Consider wearing a light grey or heather grey undershirt instead of white. White reflects a lot of light, and is one of the reasons why white undershirts are so visible under white shirts. A grey absorbs light and will not be so noticeable.
Despite their low price tags, cheap poly-cotton blend shirts are not much of a value or time-saver. Promising to be non-iron, you may quickly find the collars bubble and deform in the dryer.
If you have made-to-measure or custom shirts, keep an eye on the collars and cuffs. Those will often be the first things to fray or show wear. The great news is that they can often be replaced with a contrasting fabric (like white), giving new life to your favorite shirts.

Gitman Brothers striped shirt

Burly-q fundraiser

2010-05-12T19:25:00.000-05:00

Let's help out some local performers.

Style Upgrade: Inexpensive Finishing Touches

2010-05-11T13:45:00.005-05:00

While major purchases like new suits and custom shirts are important in revitalizing and updating your wardrobe, a few inexpensive pieces can have a good impact on your wardrobe as well. Below, I have picked three items that are less than $30 but can have a subtly positive impact on your casual and work wardrobes.

Cufflinks are available in a diverse array of materials, designs and price points. For a relatively informal look, silk knots are colorful and can be found for between $8 and $20 depending on your retailer. I have purchased French cuff shirts that featured gratis silk knots. Silk knots can match the shirt, your tie or even your favorite team colors. A pair of engraveable cufflinks can be found in everything from platinum to stainless steel. A great starter set can be had for $25 from mall-based retailer Things Remembered. A simple design gives these simple links a great deal of versatility.

As I have mentioned before, a pocket square is a finishing touch for any suit, sportcoat, or blazer. Silk pocket squares can be had for as little $7. Next time you buy a shirt or tie, check out the spin rack or glass counter display most menswear stores keep for pocket squares. A handful of colors (white, black, blue, red) will match virtually any outfit but great patterns can enhance any outfit.

One often overlooked item in your wardrobe is socks. While dark, solid color socks are fine for interviews, funerals and any conservative office, a colorful pair of socks can add a little flair to any outfit. Patterned socks are pretty subtle, but are a fun way of expressing your style. Argyle is a timeless classic but bright stripes are seeing a big resurgence these days.

For just a few bucks, any of these three items can help add a little punch to your wardrobe. All three are classic pieces that won’t go out of fashion anytime soon. Keep your eyes open for other items that can add a great finishing touch.

Check out my review

2010-05-10T17:41:00.003-05:00

http://retrospectmag.com/reviews/2010/373-little-fats-swingin-hot-shot-party-fat-joyhum.html

Check out my review on two great Japanese swing bands. While you are at it, join Retrospect Magazine's forums.

Wine tasting for charity and a great burlesque show!

2010-05-10T15:59:00.002-05:00

Please note that all proceeds for the above wine tasting go to Equality Illinois. Check out their programs at www.eqil.org!

The show will feature the gorgeous twins, Mina Mechante and Deirdre Doll. Not to mention the other talented and fabulous performers that any Vaudezilla show delivers. Check out the twins below if you doubt my description.

Chicago Sci-Fi Burlesque

2010-05-05T07:39:00.000-05:00

Smart Casual: Suit Sans Necktie

2010-05-02T08:32:00.002-05:00

While a fantastic tie is an excellent way to stand out from the pack, there are some guys who have a hard time divorcing themselves from its “business” connotations. Maybe your office is firmly business casual (emphasis on the “casual”). Perhaps you find yourself invited to brunch or dinner at a very upscale restaurant. These events, and others, can call for a suit worn without a tie.

Pinstripe suit with lavender accents. Perfect for spring and summer.

While it is certainly possible to compose a stylish outfit from separates for these occasions, a suit adds a coordinated simplicity to your look. In a very real sense, you simply do not have to think about matching slacks and jackets. With the warm weather, a khaki suit is fresh and sharp in the daytime. A dark pinstripe or dark solid is appropriate for any event.

Nick Cannon escorts the gorgeous Mariah Carey wearing a grey double-breasted and white shirt, no tie!

Your shirt choice becomes critical, as you have just taken away the visual interest that a necktie offers. As always, a pristine white shirt cannot fail. A bold pattern shirt (checks or stripes are common) or a seasonally appropriate solid color are also options if you choose wisely. Many men consistently underestimate the appeal of pastel colors in spring and summer. It is a natural pairing with lighter fabrics and an excellent contrast with darker colors. I am not a fan of button-down collars for this duty, and would have you opt for a wider spread collar that keeps its shape.

George Clooney exemplifies the casual cool of the no tie aesthetic.

A pocket square does take the place of a tie, and gives your ensemble a burst of color. Coordination is easier, since it only has to match the overall tone of your outfit. Some custom shirt makers, like Chicago-based Deo Veritas, offer a perfectly matched pocketsquare to accompany your shirt order. If you prefer to pick up a different color or pattern, just make sure it matches just as you would match a necktie to the outfit. For inspiration, just look to Hollywood style icons like George Clooney who routinely appear cool and collected in a beautiful suit and perfect shirt.

Style Upgrade: One Button Suits

2010-04-29T10:03:00.005-05:00

Odds are that the suits in your closet are 2-button or 3-button. As you add suits to your weekly line-up, it becomes harder to avoid monotony. For something really different, try a one-button suit. The one-button suit is a little seen number, once popular with Rat Pack era cocktailers and jazz musicians (Miles Davis being famous for his devotion to the one-button suit). The one-button is experiencing a resurgence as a new generation of hipsters look to the past for style icons.

The one-button suit is a fine choice for all but the most conservative of offices, and it is a great selection for any evening affair. Truthfully, it really shines as a suit to wear for social occasions. Showing up to a high-end cocktail party, five star restaurant or Sunday brunch in a one-button suit will have you taking your style to a different level.

Like any suit, a one button suit can be purchased in a variety of colors and fabrics. A navy one-button is my suggestion. Like its two-button or three-button cousins, the navy one-button is flexible for both daytime and evening events. The difficulty lies in finding this somewhat unusual piece. Most department stores do not stock a one-button and most of the off-the-rack models will be from very high-end lines. It is far easier and cheaper to have a made-to-measure garment made from a tailor like A Tailored Suit or Nicholas Joseph (among others). You can also have some very nifty details that are the hallmarks of expensive suits like surgeons’ cuffs (also known as working sleeve buttons).

One button suit from King and Allen.

A slim, simple suit with clean lines deserves an equally classic, yet contemporary shirt. With navy being wonderfully adaptable to many colors, a white shirt made of a great fabric with some texture (like a herringbone) is hard to beat. It is always a stand-out option for daytime and evening wear. A spread collar works for many body/face types and adds a little edge to your look. For evening, try the simplicity of a textured black tie. It pulls the outfit together and gives you an air of understated confidence. For daytime wear, try a great spring color like mint.

Gitman Brothers Shirt from Vavra Italy.

Modena shirt from Vavra Italy.

Wearing this suit to a nighttime outing (dinner, drinks at a club) calls for an elegant black shoe. Monkstraps fit the bill perfectly. Monkstraps do away with laces and opt for a leather strap to secure the shoe. They provide a sleek line and a wonderfully elegant touch. If your affair is in the day time, try a brown shoe. For a great mix of spring colors and great textures, try a chocolate suede brogue. Both shoes below can be found at Allen-Edmonds.

Shoes from Allen Edmonds.

Finishing touches are pretty simple. If you have a French cuffed shirt, a simple set of cufflinks will keep you looking dapper. Try a pair of oval-shaped links with your initials engraved. With Father’s Day coming up, this is a great gift to give any man. Make sure your shoes are shined or cleaned. Try topping the whole look off with a great fedora. The Biltmore Diamond Jim is a fur-felt, stingy brimmed hat with a great diamond crown. The hat should match both the tone of the outfit and your shoes, so wear the brown hat with the brown shoes. Congratulations on stepping up your game!

Biltmore Diamond Jim hats from Hats Plus.

More of the fabulous Ms. Bea Haven

2010-04-27T21:37:00.000-05:00

More Chicago Burlesque

2010-04-26T12:04:00.002-05:00

Style Upgrade: Fedora

2010-04-24T04:15:00.004-05:00

Fedoras, “church hats”, “brims”, “lids”, chapeaux. At one time, fedoras were worn every day by men in all walks of life. As a long time devotee of hat-wearing, I can honestly say that a hat is one of the best ways to truly express your personality and style in your dress. Whether you are sporting high-end custom tailoring or jeans and tees, a fedora helps you stand out from the pack.

While fedora wearing has declined since the mid-twentieth century, they remain a hallmark of stylish men. In recent years, cloth fedoras with silk-screened prints and patterns have become relatively common. I feel that is indicative of the major initial barrier to a newcomer to fedoras, getting over the feeling of being in a costume. For too many men, especially younger men, the fedora is treated as part of playing dress-up. It can carry “gangster” connotations thanks to the movies, so it doesn’t get taken seriously. The remedy is to take time to find a fedora that fits your face, your personality and your lifestyle.

It also takes some resolve to begin wearing a fedora. A man wearing the right fedora for his face and outfit takes his style to a new level. He will receive compliments from ladies and guys who lack the courage to take the hat plunge. The wearer may also hear some "haters" or the ignorant who might refer to it as a "Ne-Yo Hat" or "Gangster Hat" or something equally annoying. Like any man who upgrades his look and stands out from the pack, just remember to be true to yourself and your style and you will do just fine.

If you were to buy a single fedora, buy one in grey. Why grey and not black? Grey simply goes with more, and works well for most earth-tones in addition to navy and black. Some men put on a fedora (or any brimmed hat), look in the mirror and find it isn’t them. What they don’t do is try on several hats in several colors to find one that DOES work for them. The first thing to look at is the width of the brim. It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by a hat if it has a wide (2 ½ inches or more) brim. I think a large part of the appeal of a “stingy” or narrow brim (under 2 inches) is it shows more of the wearer’s face and tends to be sleek. The second part of the equation is the height of the crown, which is generally in proportion to the brim. So keep trying on hats in several shapes. This means you will have to go to a hat shop, and not just a place in your mall that sells baseball caps.

If at all possible, please avoid hats sized with “Medium” type sizing and go for traditionally sized hats. If you do not know your size, take a tape measure to measure your head at its widest part then divide by Pi (3.14). That number is just a place to start, as manufacturers do vary. Felted hats are generally available in two materials, fur felt or wool felt. The latter yields an inexpensive hat that will wear quickly. The former is more expensive but can yield a much longer lasting hat. An inexpensive wool hat can be a nice chance to try out a style without a lot of expense.

Hats can be expressive of your style and mood. In addition to the hat itself, the hat band is an opportunity for style or expression. Tone-on-tone hat band and hat combinations are classic, but contrasting hat bands can be wonderful. Try a white hat band on a dark hat. Try different bow styles. Try a bow on the back of the hat instead of on the left side. Just don’t put the bow on the right side, as that is traditionally for a woman’s hat.

Take the plunge and lose the baseball hat. Start trying on some hats and upgrade your style.

For Something A Little Different. . .

2010-04-22T21:02:00.002-05:00

Burlesque and a Fashion Show

2010-04-21T23:39:00.003-05:00

Death of a Pioneer

2010-04-20T19:50:00.000-05:00

One of my heroes has passed away after a long battle with cancer. Guru was a pioneer in the fusion of Jazz and Hip-Hop. His music helped expose me to be-bop which ultimately pushed me into swing and lounge. To this day, I still play "Loungin" and find it to be an amzing piece of music that stands the test of time. Read the letter below. Give the artist a moment of silence.

"I have had a long battle with cancer and have succumbed to the disease. I have suffered with this illness for over a year. I have exhausted all medical options.

"I have a non-profit organization called Each One Counts dedicated to carrying on my charitable work on behalf of abused and disadvantaged children from around the world and also to educate and research a cure for this terrible disease that took my life. I write this with tears in my eyes, not of sorrow but of joy for what a wonderful life I have enjoyed and how many great people I have had the pleasure of meeting.

"My loyal best friend, partner and brother, Solar, has been at my side through it all and has been made my health proxy by myself on all matters relating to myself. He has been with me by my side on my many hospital stays, operations, doctors visits and stayed with me at my home and cared for me when I could not care for myself. Solar and his family is my family and I love them dearly and I expect my family, friends, and fans to respect that, regardless to anybody's feelings on the matter. It is my wish that counts. This being said I am survived by the love of my life, my sun KC, who I trust will be looked after by Solar and his family as their own. Any awards or tributes should be accepted, organized approved by Solar on behalf [of] myself and my son until he is of age to except on his own."

"I do not wish my ex-DJ to have anything to do with my name likeness, events, tributes etc. connected in anyway to my situation including any use of my name or circumstance for any reason and I have instructed my lawyers to enforce this," wrote Guru. "I had nothing to do with him in life for over 7 years and want nothing to do with him in death. Solar has my life story and is well informed on my family situation, as well as the real reason for separating from my ex-DJ.

"As the sole founder of Gang Starr, I am very proud of what Gang Starr has meant to the music world and fans. I equally am proud of my Jazzmatazz series and as the father of Hip-Hop/Jazz. I am most proud of my leadership and pioneering efforts on Jazzmatazz 4 for reinvigorating the Hip-Hop/Jazz genre in a time when music quality has reached an all time low. Solar and I have toured in places that I have never been before with Gang Starr or Jazzmatazz and we gained a reputation for being the best on the planet at Hip-Hop/Jazz, as well as the biggest and most influential Hip-Hop/Jazz record with Jazzmatazz 4 of the decade to now.

"The work I have done with Solar represents a legacy far beyond its time. And we as a team were not afraid to push the envelope. To me this is what true artists do! As men of honor we stood tall in the face of small-mindedness, greed, and ignorance. As we fought for music and integrity at the cost of not earning millions and for this I will always be happy and proud, and would like to thank the million fans who have seen us perform over the years from all over the world. The work I have done with Solar represents a legacy far beyond its time and is my most creative and experimental to date. I hope that our music will receive the attention it deserves as it is some of the best work I have done and represents some of the best years of my life."

Classic Style in Movies: Lonely Hearts

2010-04-20T11:33:00.000-05:00

Lonely Hearts, is the 2006 fact-based crime thriller that explores the 1940’s serial killers and con artists dubbed “the Lonely Hearts Killers”. Raymond Fernandez, played by Jared Leto, targets lonely women, war widows and spinsters who use dating clubs and personals ads. He woos them with his letters, then meets and robs them. When he meets Martha Beck, played by the stunning Salma Hayek, she pushes him to kill as acts of devotion.

The director is the grandson of Detective Robinson (John Travolta) and several family mementos appear in the opening of the movie. The director’s love for his grandfather shows in the portrayal of the detective. Robinson comes across as a tenacious, intelligent man who is stirred from the depths of depression by a murder that fooled his fellow detectives into being initially called a suicide. Robinson’s partner, Detective Hildebrandt, is played with world-weariness by James Gandolfini. The classic pairing of a burned-out cynic (Gandolfini) and a veteran out to redeem himself has been done better but their performances are serviceable. The stand-out is the cold, evil killer played by Selma Hayek. We are so used to seeing her in positive, uplifting rolls that her performance as Beck is pretty chilling.

The movie does creep along in some parts, making pacing a tad awkward. The stylized characterizations are serviceable and the visuals are also good but lack the impact that period pieces have delivered in the past. Selma Hayek’s costuming is marvelous, with vintage fashions showing off her incredible looks. Overall, I enjoyed the movie on its own merits. It was a good period crime thriller with some solid performances by veteran actors.

What Burlesque Means. . .

2010-04-19T15:20:00.001-05:00

Michelle L'amour/Stripper's Holiday

2010-04-18T14:53:00.003-05:00

Dorfman-Pacific/Stetson Deal

2010-04-14T12:34:00.001-05:00

From http://www.hatlife.com/newsletters/2010/apr10_1/art1.htm

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Dorfman Pacific just signed a license agreement with Stetson. The new collection, that debuts this August at trade shows in Las Vegas, includes dressy cloth caps and hats, men’s outdoor and golf headwear (and unisex) as well as women’s and children’s headwear.

The Dorfman Pacific Stetson line will also include authentic Western wear, sturdy action wear and men’s contemporary street wear.

"We are very excited to partner with Dorfman Pacific and look forward to taking Stetson's headwear business forward with them in collaboration with all of the Stetson licensees" said Pamela Fields, CEO of Stetson Worldwide.

The new collection will be shown in August 2010 with product showcases at WWDMAGIC, Project and MRMarketPlace. An expanded agreement, covering Japan, Asia, Oceana (Australia - New Zealand) and Latin America includes all fabrics, as well as dress and Western hats.

“For an American company to add an American heritage brand to its portfolio is always a cause for celebration,” said Douglas Highsmith, President and CEO of Dorfman Pacific.

“But for an American hat manufacturer, nothing could be more viscerally thrilling, or a greater cause for pride, than to take responsibility for Stetson—one of, quite possibly the most authentic and legendary of all American brands. We expect that this enormously prestigious brand will become one of our largest brands.”

Stetson was founded by John B. Stetson in 1865. “Stetson has remained true to its heritage and to the timeless standards that it represents,” they said.

In the last year Dorfman Pacific has added Tommy Bahama, Woolrich, Panama Jack, Blue Chair Bay(TM) by Kenny Chesney, Cappelli Straworld(TM), Discovery Expedition(TM), John Deere and Mossy Oak to its line up.

DP recently opened a new, expanded showroom in Atlanta, and has showrooms in Dallas, Boston, Honolulu and New York.

As for Stetson, I am waiting for their napkin line, ice cream line and perhaps underwear collection. It seems that Fields has been hot on her heels to make this brand as ubiquitous and powerful as Ed Hardy. And maybe that’s a great thing today.

Spring/Summer Style: Perry Ellis

2010-04-14T10:36:00.005-05:00

When it comes to building a wardrobe, many men can find their casual and business needs met by Perry Ellis. There are more luxurious labels and custom is always ideal, but many men have large numbers of basic needs that simply must be filled in the closet. Perry Ellis offers smart casual and business pieces that range from slacks to shirts to suits to ties. Available at a number of retailers, including department stores and www.perryellis.com, Perry Ellis can be a place to pick up classic, clean and contemporary clothing. Here are a couple of my favorite picks from their current line-up. They offer solutions to gaps in many wardrobes.

The spring is always time for a lightweight jacket. The nylon Eisenhower jacket has its roots in the former President but looked amazing on James Dean in "Rebel Without a Cause". It is a simple design that is functional and lightweight. The last few seasons have seen military-influenced blazers and jackets be quite popular. The jacket below has slender lapels and two bellows pockets on the chest, a nice change for a jacket that is perfect for jeans or a casual workplace.

No matter the season, one's necktie wardrobe should not be neglected. Seasonal colors and patterns keep one's wardrobes fresh. Moreover, solid colors or subtle patterns that see a lot of use due to their versatility should be replaced when needed. Finally, we've all lost a tie to a nasty stain after a careless meal or similar tragedy. Take a few minutes to go through your neckwear and find out what needs to be replaced. Don't forgot the matching cufflinks and other furnishings.

As you find time to enjoy the warmer weather, take stock of your needs and make a list. Keep it on you when window-shop or run errands. Or take the easy way out and shop on-line. Slight seasonal adjustments to your wardrobe keep you looking fresh and can give new life to pieces you already have in your closet. A new tie can give a favorite suit a fresh look and cufflinks can be a new detail that keeps your favorite shirt interesting. Maintaining your wardrobe doesn't have to involve a lot of money or time but it will reap rewards for you in social or business settings.

Retro-Style in Music Video. "It's My Life" by No Doubt

2010-04-13T18:02:00.000-05:00

A little personal nostalgia. I was and am a fan of No Doubt. It was a remake of a new wave song by TalkTalk, not that I was a fan of the original. No, what got me hooked was the video. Gwen Stefani done up as Jean Harlow was inspired. Today,bright and sunny, it was playing on my I-Pod and I wanted to share it again.

Chicago Burlesque Events

2010-04-13T10:49:00.002-05:00

Sci-Fi Style II

2010-04-10T19:20:00.001-05:00

In the past, I'd written about my fascination with science-fiction as a source for wardrobe inspiration. Like period movies, sci-fi is a genre of film and television that requires a talented designer to bring an imagined or forgotten world to life. Like the previously mentioned Caprica on Sy-Fy, two famous science fiction franchises feature some incredible inspiration for the modern world. For some film fans, it isn't enough to watch a film or admire a character, some purchase replications of the wardrobes. While some pieces are clearly costumes and difficult to wear in the "real" world, some of these pieces are based on classic apparel and would make unique additions to a closet. Two makers of such reproductions have made high quality, wardrobe-worthy versions of clothing from these films. One is Abby Shot and the other is Magnoli Clothiers.

Doctor Who is the longest running science fiction show on television,

going through ten Doctors and generating animpressive catalog of episodes. Many of the Doctors have had great wardrobes with signature clothing based on

classic British tailoring. The most recent Doctor wears an amazing overcoat with buttons that fasten and adjust the

tail. It is a quiet detail that yields a unique coat. Add to that a clever suit in a classic pinstripe with a bellows pocket

on the chest and you can sport a look that sets you apart from others.

Jacket and suit from Magnoli Clothiers

Doctor Who coat from Abby Shot

Bladerunner brought film noir into the future, blending the style of Hollywood's Golden Age with the technology of the twenty-first century. Rick Deckard wore a great raincoat as he wandered the rain soaked streets of Los Angeles in search of runaway replicants. An update of the classic trench coats worn by film P.I.'s in days past, Deckard's coat has a great looking and very functional throat closing.

Deckard Trench by Abby Shot

Deckard Trench by Magnoli Clothiers

Science-fiction isn't for geeks anymore. The above pieces might find a place in your closet

and give you an attention-getting item of clothing. If you have your eye on a new coat for next fall or winter, these might be possibilities.

Particularty if you just haven't seen something that you really like. Or just use these items for inspiration. Either

way, a great overcoat or trench will have a spot in anyone's closet.

The Freak Museum This Sunday!

2010-04-09T20:32:00.001-05:00

Girlie-Q, Ms. Bea Haven, Jenn Tyburczy, and Adil Monsoor present:
The Freak Museum, a performance installation in celebration and examination of freakdom

$12 with friends & family code, $15 without or at the door.

Tickets available at http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/106122. Special code: Let your freak flag fly

See human oddities!
Witness sexual deviance!
Behold vaudeville variety!
Survey stunning spectacle!
Gawk at sideshow madness!
Gape at divine excess!
Spy sultry striptease!
Feast your eyes on fascinating freaks!

The Freak Museum will show human "exhibits" investigating different aspects of freakdom, from bearded ladies, conjoined twins, giants, cultural “others” from “foreign” and “exotic” lands…the usual menagerie of “freaks” that populated zoos, sideshows, to dime museums in the nineteenth-century. Imagine, as well, the freaks of today such as reality television stars, cosmetic surgery debacles, terrorists and other fear and anxiety-inspiring stereotypes.

This carnival/performance installation exemplifies the divine aesthetics of excess, filled with people and characters whose bodies provocatively and powerfully deviate from “normal” standards of beauty. Witness glamorous and gritty performance, connected to a history of monstrosity and monstrous bodies that encapsulate the fears, desires, and anxieties of a particular place and time. Drawing from sideshow, burlesque, performance art, body art, fetish performance, vaudeville, and more, the Freak Museum will enchant, titillate, and make you think.

Starring:
Ammunition
(The spirit of) Saartjie Baartman
The Bearded Lady
Greer Beckman
Candyland
Aurelia Clunie
The Electrified Woman
Brad French
The Half Man/Half Woman
Ms. Bea Haven
The Human Pincushion
Special K
The FeeGee Mermaid
Adil Monsoor
Lara O
Mistress Overdone
Tinuade Oyelowo
Titty Perkins
Sultry Susan
Chairman Wao
and more!

Visit Dick Tracy

2010-04-07T17:50:00.002-05:00

Dick Tracy sculpture to keep an eye on Naperville Riverwalk

Dick Locher, a longtime associate of fictional detective, integral in bringing work to his hometown

An almost finished nine-foot statue of comics detective Dick Tracy is seen at at the River's Edge Foundry in Beloit, WI. The statue will be installed April 11 in Naperville, the home of Dick Locher, the strip's longtime cartoonist. (Tribune photo by Chuck Berman / March 31, 2010)

After months of anticipation, Downtown Naperville's Riverwalk soon will welcome a crime fighter unlike any it has ever seen: fictitious police detective and funny-pages fixture Dick Tracy.

A 78-year presence in the comics who also has been portrayed on TV, in cartoons and on the silver screen, Tracy can add a new line to his resume: He's the subject of a nearly nine-foot, 2,000-pound bronze sculpture, which Naperville leaders will dedicate Sunday.

And while Naperville's criminal element doesn't match the hardscrabble characters that Tracy spends his time nabbing in a gritty big city, Naperville is an ideal setting for the sculpture, because Dick Locher, who writes the comic strip's story line, has lived in the city since 1969. Locher assisted the strip's creator, Chester Gould, in drawing the strip from 1957 until 1961, then returned as the sole cartoonist in 1983 He retired from drawing the strip last year but continues to write its story line.

"I am so damn excited," said Locher, who worked on the likeness with sculptor Don Reed, Beloit, Wis.-based River's Edge Foundry and leaders from Naperville's nonprofit Century Walk Corp., which places artwork on the Riverwalk. "It seems like the sculpture turned out pretty well."

The sculpture will be the 35th piece erected by Century Walk, said Naperville lawyer W. Brand Bobosky, who founded Century Walk in 1996 with an aim of placing 30 works of art along the Riverwalk. The group since has expanded its mission to funding and installing artwork all around Naperville.

"We're calling this a signature piece of art," Bobosky said. "Dick Tracy is world-renowned, so we believe that this will be a piece that will attract a lot of visitors to see it."

Depicting Dick Tracy using his two-way wrist radio, the sculpture shows the square-jawed sleuth wearing a yellow coat, a yellow hat and a red tie, Locher said. On hand Sunday for the 1 p.m. unveiling will be representatives from Century Walk, which funded the $130,500 sculpture largely through grant money from the city; Tribune Media Services, which owns the rights to the Tracy character; the Naperville City Council; and River's Edge Foundry.

"I think it's wonderful," said Naperville Mayor George Pradel. "Many people use the Riverwalk, and kids will be able to see the sculpture and associate Dick Tracy with Naperville."

The sculpture will be perched on the south side of the DuPage River on land owned by Naperville Township and is adjacent to its headquarters building.

"We had several spots to choose from along Water Street on the riverfront, and we really liked this location, which is about 10 feet from the water," said Locher, who continues to draw editorial cartoons for the Tribune while in semi-retirement. "Looking at the sculpture from Main Street, you'll see a perfect reflection of Dick Tracy in the water. We think that's kind of neat."

Close to a year in the making, the sculpture originally was scheduled to be dedicated in October, but after continued refinement of it, backers decided to wait to complete it until the weather improved, said Steve Tippie, vice president of licensing for Tribune Media Services. In all, about 50 people at the foundry worked on the sculpture, with the foundry pouring the first metal castings for it in September, Reed said.

"We tried to create a great piece of art, knowing full well that it may be around for 400 or 500 years into the future if it's cared for," Reed said.

Century Walk officials, city officials and Tribune Media are considering defraying some of the Tracy sculpture's cost by having maquettes, or scale models, of the sculpture created and sold. However, that has not been decided, Tippie and Bobosky said.

In the meantime, with the 2008 closing of the Chester Gould-Dick Tracy museum in Woodstock — cartoonist Gould's hometown until his death in May 1985 — the sculpture will be the most prominent manifestation of Dick Tracy in the Chicago area. It will join another unique DuPage County commemoration of the detective: a bunker at the Cantigny golf course near Wheaton designed in the shape of his fedora-topped head.

A tractor-trailer was scheduled to deliver the sculpture from Beloit to Naperville, Reed said.

"We're going to take a semi and put (the sculpture) in a cradle, protect it as much as we can, and drive real slow," he said last week.

From Chicago Tribune

http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/local/ct-x-w-0407-dick-tracy-statue-20100403,0,4529974.story

Personal note

2010-04-07T17:03:00.002-05:00

Just wanted to let everyone know that e-mail I had attached to this blog, southsidestyle@gmail.com has been compromised and I cannot access it anymore. I can be reached at ortega76@gmail.com! Sorry for the confusion.

Smart Casual: Original Penguin

2010-04-06T15:41:00.001-05:00

If the work week can wreak havoc on a gentleman's sense of style, then the weekend is treacherous in the extreme. For some guys, the weekend is for your baggiest, most broken-in jeans and an old college team shirt. For some weekend plans, like moving your buddy or sanding your deck, those old favorites are just fine. If your plans involve going outside of the house, you probably want to upgrade your look. Cruise the mall or grocery store or your local coffee shop and you can see the vast numbers of guys that have chosen comfort as their primary feature of clothing.

With a few subtle changes to your weekend wardrobe can be comfortable, stylish and give your appearance the edge in any weekend social situation. In today's interconnected social world, you just never know who you will meet in a given social situation. You may run into a prospective employer in a Starbucks, a future customer in line at the grocery store or you may need to impress your significant other's friends or family at lunch or dinner. While a suit may be a bit too formal, your Ed Hardy tee is not going to win you a lot of points.

Dressing casual can be difficult, especially in today's youth obsessed culture. Some of my favorite solutions to this quandary are offered by Original Penguin. Founded as a purveyor of golf and resort clothing, Original Penguin was resurrected for the twenty-first century by the parent company of Perry Ellis. Featuring a variety of casual pieces that are both timeless and stylish, Original Penguin channels a distinctly early-sixties vibe with slim lapels on its jackets and close-fitting polos.

Starting from the ground up, let me urge you to put away your Nike Shox. Not to knock running shoes but they belong in a gym. Their are plenty of casual shoes that are comfortable and stylish. Even a retro-sneaker like an Adidas Stan Smith or a Puma Roma can be appropriate. Original Penguin offers a few styles of their own. Just set your runners in the closet or gym locker.

While a pair of jeans is a necessary item in your closet, chinos or cotton trousers can give you a more dynamic look to your weekend wardrobe. In warmer weather, cotton chinos are usually more comfortable than a heavy denim and they can be just as durable as jeans. If you are feeling bold and sporty, take a cue from golfers of yesterday and try a pair of plaid pants. They may not be ideal for all occasions, but a pair of these can liven up your weekend look.

T-shirts will always have their place in a man's closet. The warm weather of spring and summer is no reason to not wear a decent shirt when venturing out of the house. A polo shirt or buttondown can still keep you comfortable, cool and put-together. Pastel colors will keep your shirts seasonally appropriate. Some guys won't touch pastels (especially pink) to save their lives, but I rarely meet a woman who doesn't love seeing a guy in pastels. If the weather is uncertain, a fun blazer can be a nice addition or a cardigan might be more to your liking. You'll be comfortable but you won't need to break out a hoodie.

The great thing about the weekend is that you can keep your accessories to a minimum. You probably need your cellphone, wallet and maybe a watch. As always, keep your look clean and streamlined. Don't clip your phone to belt, you aren't Batman and you don't need a utility belt.

The weekend is no time to slack on your appearance. Try some of the above gear at many department stores or on-line.

New life for a Chicago institution

2010-04-02T15:45:00.002-05:00

From chicagotribune.com

http://www.chicagobreakingbusiness.com/2010/04/new-ambassador-east-hotel-owner-plans-revival.html

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New Ambassador East Hotel Owner Plans Revival

By Wailin Wong | Ian Schrager is officially the new owner of the Ambassador East hotel and the legendary Pump Room restaurant, and the famous hotelier has ambitious plans to restore the grandeur of the faded Gold Coast landmarks.

"It already has great DNA," Schrager told the Tribune in an interview. "It already has this great ethos and history and tradition. So it's a matter of going back in there and coming with a product that's distinguishable from everything else in the marketplace."

Schrager officially took over the hotel at 1300 N. State St., on Thursday. His acquisition of the property has been the subject of speculation for nearly a year. Financial terms of the deal were not disclosed, though he reportedly offered $25 million for the property. Local developers Peter Dumon and David Bossy, along with a former partner, purchased the 285-room Ambassador East for $44.5 million in 2005.

Schrager kept mum on what the renovated property would look like. Planning will take about nine to 10 months, and the project itself another year. He said it has not been decided whether the hotel and restaurant will be closed during the renovation.

The hotelier, whose wife hails from Evanston, said he's sensitive to the hotel's place in Chicago culture and is aware of previous controversies over the remakes of local icons, such as Macy's acquisition of Marshall Field's.

"For a hotel in the city to be successful, it has to be embraced and supported by the local people," he said. "We'll go in there with that purpose in mind."

The Ambassador East opened in 1926, followed by the Pump Room in 1938. The restaurant, which for years was a celebrity hub for Hollywood stars and celebrities such as Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall, Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra, had recently downsized its menu and scaled back operations.

Schrager, who was one of the owners of Studio 54 in New York, is credited as the pioneer of the boutique hotel concept. The Ambassador East is his first Chicago property.

"To me, (Chicago is) a very elegant city," Schrager said. "I think it has probably the most beautiful architecture in all of America and I just love the people, the simplicity, the basic honesty. We're going to try to do something that fits. We want to do a Chicago hotel. We're not looking to do a New York or California hotel in Chicago."

Windy City Burlesque Fest 2010 Tickets Going Fast

2010-03-31T19:37:00.002-05:00

Tickets for the first annual Chicago Burlesque Festival are going fast. There are some incredible acts. You can get your tickets for the various performances at www.windycityburlesque.com!

Gelber and Manning In Pictures

2010-03-31T10:44:00.005-05:00

GELBER & MANNING IN PICTURES - webisode 101 from James Lester on Vimeo.

The first episode of Gelber and Manning In Pictures, a series set in Prohibition. Fun Stuff. Visit www.gelberandmanning.tv to download an MP3 of one of the original songs in the webisode and some behind-the-scenes pics.

Classic Style In Movies: Curse of the Jade Scorpion

2010-03-29T18:03:00.003-05:00

Some people are cat people, some people prefer dogs. Some like chocolate ice cream, others prefer vanilla. In the same vein, you either love Woody Allen flicks or you hate them. This is not your typical Woody Allen film. As a screwball comedy it is enjoyable, but not spectacular. It lacks the punch of witty dialogue and even Woody Allen considers this his worst movie. Some of the casting was downright bad (Helen Hunt is terrible as the romantic lead), but the movie has some gorgeous staging.

Woody Allen plays a womanizing insurance investigator who is successful in his field thanks to his ability to think like the thieves he chases. His boss has hired an efficiency expert (played by Helen Hunt) who objects to his sloppy ways. Along the way they get mixed up with a larcenous hypnotist, with Allen's investigator being forced to commit crimes while under the spell of the scheming mesmerist.

The period costuming is fun and the sets are fantastic. What I find most amazing is the eye candy of the gorgeous Charlize Theron dressed as a film noir-inspired sex kitten. Saved By The Bell alum Elizabeth Berkley is also a nice bit of window dressing as the sexy secretary of Woody Allen's investigator.

Is this a great movie? No. Anyone expecting the typical Woody Allen film is going to be disappointed. This movie is a fun romp that doesn't take itself seriously. Give it a look and tell me what you think.

Not your father's khakis.

2010-03-27T07:23:00.001-05:00

While chinos or "khakis" are a wardrobe staple for the casual office or a retail uniform, a rugged pair can be great alternative to jeans. Originally worn by World War II soldiers, chinos came home with the returning troops to become the comfortable clothes of the weekend . With the rise of business casual, khakis have gotten a bit dressy with pleats and lightweight fabrics. A rugged pair of khakis can be a nice substitute to jeans.

Dockers has stepped away from its office appropriate offerings with the K-1 khaki. Made in the spirit of the World War II era khaki, the K-1 has a beefy, durable fabric that's been softened through an aging process like many designer jeans. It has a button-fly like the military originals. This a pair of khakis made for work, not the office. It has backyard barbecues or moving day in mind. There are more authentic WWII reproduction khakis available, but the K-1 does a nice job at less than a $100. So check out a pair at your local department store or on-line!

A Vested Interest

2010-03-25T15:47:00.003-05:00

The vest (or waistcoat) is a garment with a long and storied history. The vest was ubiquitous in the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Indeed, prior to World War II most men's suits were three-piece affairs with trousers, jacket and vest of the same cloth. It was a functional garment, giving a place for a pocket watch and providing an extra layer of warmth in poorly heated homes and offices. Thanks to the girth of the Prince of Wales, a renowned dandy responsible for cuffed trousers among other innovations of menswear, the bottom button of a vest is traditionally left undone. Three piece suits were the norm in America until World War II, when material was needed for the war effort. Since World War II, the vest has occasionally come back into style. It is currently experiencing a renaissance as both a casual garment and part of a suit.

Duckie from Sixteen Candles

The vest as a casual garment has been popular in the sixties and the eighties, worn with a t-shirt and jeans. The combination of an article of clothing with more formal origins (a vest) with utilitarian apparel (denim) has a very bohemian vibe. This look has once again become popular in youth culture, with some vests being decorated with screen prints and the like. The use of materials beyond the wool used in a typical suit is also common, with textures from silk to satin to denim being evidenced. Ducky, from Sixteen Candles, takes this bohemian look to extremes. The gentleman in jeans and a tee is a bit more low-key and you are more likely to see this look on the street. The tee can be screen-printed, but a solid color works best. Likewise, your denim can be distressed or dark, loose or tight. Just keep it all in proportion.

The vest has also helped merged weekend and workday styles in some business casual offices. Wearing a shirt and tie with jeans is common in many offices, and the addition of a vest adds a level of formality that offsets the rugged jeans or sneakers often seen in the casual workplace. It can also be as practical as it was in the office of last century. It adds a layer for warmth but leaves the arms free. Its pockets can store small items, like an I-Pod or cellphone which are as ubiquitous as pocket watches of yesterday. The darker the denim of the jeans, the more office appropriate. Casual shoes (like all leather lace-up oxfords or chukka boots) work fine with this ensemble but a "retro" tennis shoe (e.g. Puma Roma or Converse Doctor J Low or Adidas Stan Smith) in white-leather can be fine as well, depending on the dress code.

Stacy Adams Lunar Compo Suit

The three-piece suit is also experiencing a resurgence. Three-piece suits with long jackets (4-6 buttons) and vests that may not be of the same fabric as the other parts of the suit have been popular among African-American entertainers and athletes for nearly a decade now. Steve Harvey is perhaps the foremost celebrity example of this style, and he has his own line of such suits. Stacy Adams also features a number of suits that match this description in their offerings. This type of suit does have some similarity to the sacque suit, popular from the 1890's through the 1920's. Sacque suits featured a high-buttoned jacket and a loose fit to the trousers and jacket. As styles changed in the 1920's, these suits were replaced by closer fitting Jazz suits and eventually the modern business suit. While popular in many minority communities, the modern 4-6 button suits are not always accepted in a formal business environment.

The more conservative and modern vested suit features a 2- or 3-button jacket and a single or double breasted vest. It is strongly influenced by the close-to-the-body fit of English tailoring. It is offered in a variety of fabrics. Some labels, like Perry Ellis or catalog retailer Paul Frederick, even offer a line of suit separates that include an optional vest. In such lines, the jacket and trousers are priced individually for the best fit and the option to purchase a vest is also available. The rules for a three-piece suit are much the same for any other suit in terms of matching furnishings. A light grey suit would allow a wide variety of shoe combinations, shirt and tie pairings and the like. The ultimate power suit in this vein can be a tailored three-piece grey suit paired with an incredible white shirt and a red or blue tie. It is a look that would make any banker or industrialist proud.

classic three button suit by Indochino

A vest can be a great investment for both your casual and business casual wardrobes. The vest worn with a tee and jeans is wonderfully bohemian for most men. Adding a vest to your business casual ensemble also adds another interesting option, just as a sweater or sweater vest would. The three-piece suit is an outstanding investment, especially if you work in an office that has a more formal dress code. Just like any suit, tailoring can provide any number of customization options including ticket pockets, lapel widths and color. Find any number of great ways to express yourself with this classic garment.

Modern Gatsby March 25

2010-03-25T05:33:00.000-05:00

HBO's "Boardwalk Empire"

2010-03-23T06:36:00.000-05:00

Preview Trailer #2

I am eagerly anticipating HBO's Fall 2010 drama "Boardwalk Empire". Directed by the legendary Martin Scorcese and written by Sopranos' Terrence Winter, the series is set in Atlantic City in 1920. It is inspired by the book "Boardwalk Empire: the Birth, High Times and Corruption of Atlantic City" by Nelson Johnson, a book that took nearly twenty years to research. As Prohibition gets underway, Wall Street's stock boom is starting and the social fabric is irrevocably changing. The Roaring Twenties was a time of social and political change. The series focuses on the city's treasurer, played by Steve Buscemi. The series promises lots of shady characters and backroom deals. It also promises appearances by historical personalities like Al Capone and Lucky Luciano.

I love the look and feel of the 1920's. It is arguably the first modern American era, with social change (women's suffrage, growing youth culture and the popularity of jazz) and technological change (the explosion of radio and telephone) that has defined subsequent generations. I love the social conventions that helped define the gender roles, even in a time of change. The time embodied elegance in dress and mannerisms, even as many average Americans have their first brush with the underworld thanks to Prohibition.

HBO has done a consistently excellent job in the production of its series and mini-series. The involvement of Martin Scorcese only solidifies the expectation of greatness for this project. I cannot wait until it premieres. I hope you will support its development and broadcast.

Vaudezilla Video Burlesque

2010-03-21T16:21:00.001-05:00

BROADZILLA! (1.29.10) - "Boulevard of Broken Dreams" by Chasity Chaos from Vaudezilla Productions on Vimeo.

Vaudezilla's Chastity Chaos performs to "Boulevard of Broken Dreams" at Exit. Just a sample of their stellar performances.

Classic Style In Movies- Cats Don't Dance

2010-03-19T16:55:00.001-05:00

Cats Don't Dance is an oft-forgotten animated gem from 1997. It is set in a world where talking, dancing animals exist in a world with humans, though the animals enjoy a bit of a second class existence. The movie is one of the best attempts at recreating the Golden Age of Hollywood stand-by of "bright eyed youngster makes it big in Hollywood". In fact the movie is set in 1939 and features some wonderful "appearances" by Hollywood greats such as Mae West and Clark Gable.

Talented Danny (voiced by Scott Bakula) arrives in Hollywood from Kokomo, Indiana. Expecting to make it to stardom in a week, he has his dreams of stardom ruined by a delightfully evil caricature of Shirley Temple, Darla Dimple. The plot is hardly original, with the villains getting their comeuppance after a whirlwind of musical numbers and the help of scrappy friends.

I was glad to see that the music (artfully done by Randy Newman) pays homage to the larger-than-life feel of the glory days of Hollywood and helps move the story along at a break-neck pace. Furthermore, the animation style is a spot-on Tex Avery clone (in the best way possible). My favorite touch is the use of screen legend Gene Kelly to choreograph the dance sequences. If there is a complaint, it is that the movie is only available in a rather boring pan-and-scan DVD that doesn't do this forgotten gem much justice. Like any great animated movie, this has great potential for both adults and kids.

Time Out Chicago Pics of No Tell Motel

2010-03-19T16:09:00.002-05:00

Check out the below link for some great pictures from No Tell Motel at the Debonair Social Club. It features some burlesque performers in a very adult, risque set of performances.

No Tell Motel Pics.

Spring Is Sprung

2010-03-19T08:07:00.001-05:00

According to the IRS, the average individual tax return is $2,488. In this economy, it would be foolish to waste this return on frivolity. I encourage anyone getting a tax refund to use it to pay bills. I would also encourage you to take a part of your refund and invest it in yourself by updating your business or interview wardrobe.

I have discussed the basics of a business wardrobe, in particular a suit for interviews and the accompanying shirts and furnishings. The upcoming Easter holiday, combined with slow sales in the early part of the year have given rise to some tremendous sales. I urge you to take a small portion of your tax return and update your wardrobe.

If you still need to buy a suit for interviews, weddings and special occasions, then take advantage of the sales being offered. If you have your suit, consider buying a few shirts and ties. With a great suit as a foundation, a few new shirts can give your wardrobe a fresh kick. Try a few bold colors like red, which works well for a nighttime selection.

If you are a bit more advanced, spring is the ideal time to rid your closet of old and outdated garments. If you haven't worn it in a year, toss it. If your dress shirts are fraying, replace them. Ditto for your basics like t-shirts, socks and underwear. If you have gained or lost weight, take the affected items to a tailor. Think about what you need. Even simple things like a new belt or braces. Make a list and hit a few sales!

Casual jacket with bellows pockets by Magnoli Clothiers.

This is also a great time to try something new in your wardrobe. If you only wear a suit to weddings and funerals, try a sportcoat or two in your weekly rotation. Aside from a typical wool or wool-blend, a linen jacket would be a nice addition for the warm weather ahead. It might be time to try a custom clothier. A custom jacket can be a good opportunity to build something that really expresses your style without the investment of a larger or more complicated piece like a suit, overcoat or tuxedo.

Linen Jacket made to order by Magnoli Clothiers.

In short, take an hour to assess your wardrobe's needs will give you the time to keep you looking sharp and presentable.

Channel Your Inner Gordon Gecko

2010-03-18T17:04:00.002-05:00

"The point is, ladies and gentleman, that greed, for lack of a better word, is good. Greed is right, greed works. Greed clarifies, cuts through, and captures the essence of the evolutionary spirit. Greed, in all of its forms; greed for life, for money, for love, knowledge has marked the upward surge of mankind. And greed, you mark my words, will not only save Teldar Paper, but that other malfunctioning corporation called the USA. Thank you very much."
-Gordon Gekko, Wall Street

My post today is not going to delve into politics or finance. My post today is inspired by the movie "Wall Street", along with my observations of the past few days. With the news of the upcoming sequel to Wall Street, I found myself channeling my inner-robber baron of Wall Street by wearing a contrast collar shirt and pinstripe suit. My commute to work involves public transportation through the Loop, so I get a glimpse of business and business-casual wardrobes every day. Even more so with the warm weather of the last few days.

In the early twentieth century, men purchased their shirts separate from the collars. Since the white shirt was most popular for conservative businessmen, the white collar was most often purchased. Many men had several shirts, but only one or two collars (typically white). As shirts with attached collars became the norm, some thrifty bankers would have their frayed collars and cuffs replaced with white ones. The contrast collar stuck as a "banker's shirt".

The contrast collar shirt is enjoying increased popularity of late. The classic contrast collar shirts have rather preppy shirt bodies like pink or, more commonly, blue. Some forward looking urban fashion labels have been producing some bold patterns for those white collars. While I am not a fan of many of the patterns, I applaud the increase in shirting options. In general, these shirts from urban designers tend to have a very full fit and double cuffs.

These two shirts are bold pieces from Steven Land.

I would prefer keeping a contrast collared shirt as classic as possible. A number of excellent options can be found in a variety of fits, including slim and fitted. The shirt below has the white collar paired with a button cuff, yet another variation for this classic look.

Shirt from Indochino.

When it comes to ties, take a cue from Gordon Gekko. Keep your tie classic but bold enough to keep the white collar from taking all the glory. Your suit should be dark, to provide a great "frame" for your bold shirt and bolder tie. Your shoe selection should be fairly conservative, although a nice pair of spectators might give you a swing-style vibe. The suspenders are up to you. Mr. Gekko and I are both big fans of the "Wall Street" look.

Some fashion news links

2010-03-16T08:09:00.001-05:00

http://www.chicagobreakingbusiness.com/2010/03/calvin-klein-parent-buys-tommy-hilfiger.html
Tommy Hilfiger bought by Calvin Klein's parent company.

http://www.chicagotribune.com/business/sns-ap-us-earns-mens-wearhouse,0,5605536.story?obref=obnetwork
Of personal interest to me, Men's Wearhouse 4th quarter earnings are down.

Time Waster: Lackadaisy Cats

2010-03-13T22:23:00.003-06:00

I have a long-standing love of gangster movies. I am also more of a cat person than a dog person. Tracy J. Butler has a beautifully illustrated web comic that artfully combines the two. Lackadaisy tells the story of a group of bootleggers (that happen to be cats) in 1927 Saint Louis. It has an extensive archive, so you can read the series from the beginning.

Walk Like An Egyptian

2010-03-12T06:55:00.001-06:00

I'm a big fan of the Puppini Sisters, having mentioned them last June. This is one of my favorite songs. A cover of the Bangles' Walk Like An Egyptian.

Turtlenecks

2010-03-11T14:39:00.005-06:00

The turtleneck is one of the most versatile garments that a man can own. Originally worn by laborers and seamen, the turtleneck was quickly adopted in a thinner version by bohemians and intellectuals in the mid-twentieth century. Ultimately, it was embraced by anti-tie intellectuals like Steve Jobs.

While a number of people have made the turtleneck their signature look, I believe that Steve McQueen did it best in 1968's Bullitt. McQueen's tough, determined, unorthodox cop set the standard for action heroes for generations. His turtleneck was not one for the beatniks, but one to be worn by a serious man of action.

Take a cue from Steve McQueen. He wore the turtleneck for its simplicity and utility. His turtleneck was not made of tissue-thin silk and cotton to be worn under another sweater at a ski lodge while sipping cocoa. His turtleneck was stout but form-fitting. In fact, it's perfect in both winter and spring. In the former, it keeps the neck warm and is a great insulate layer under an old-fashioned pea-coat. In the latter, it is ideal on its own for cold spring mornings or evenings. Keep it a dark, simple color like black or navy. Wear it with jeans while you run errands or have a few chores.

Wool-and-cashmere Boatswain Turtleneck from Magnoli Clothiers

Details Matter- 3 Tips

2010-03-10T09:00:00.001-06:00

This week is the season 1 finale of White Collar, the crime solving series that showcases the pairing of a straight-laced FBI agent and a slick art thief. On a personal note, I'm a fan of the series. It's smart and funny with a great cast. Most cable companies have the last few episodes on their On Demand services. It's worth a look.

For the last few years , the narrow lapeled, close fitting suits of the 1960's have been in vogue thanks to Mad Men. White Collar's Neal Caffrey gives us a modern update to that aesthetic.

Without delving too deeply into the look, I want to put forth the following idea. Neal Caffrey's look is a great example of why details matter. Here are my three quick tips.

1. Fit is king. With the current crop of close cut suits, proper fit is more important than ever. Make sure your suit is properly tailored, and is neither billowing or too snug. Ask a knowledgeable salesperson or a decent tailor.

2. Keep it clean. Make sure your shoes are polished, your hair is groomed and your facial hair is in order.

3. Keep it simple. Choose your accessories to showcase your style AND your taste. Don't go overboard with too many. Since the suit, shirt and tie are subdued, the fedora and simple tie bar are just perfect to allow a bit of jaunty style and personality to shine through. Too many guys go a bit too far in this area, with flashy watches, gaudy tie clips, bright ties and cufflinks all in one outfit.

Burlesque Shows in the Windy City

2010-03-09T21:01:00.002-06:00

Sci-Fi Style

2010-03-07T21:22:00.000-06:00

When you bring up science fiction and style, one might think of any number of bizarre and unlikely costumes. From silver jumpsuits to road warrior leathers, it's the outlandish that sets the tone and flavor for the genre. Every once in awhile, sci-fi becomes the vehicle for setting the bar for style.

In the 1980's, Bladerunner set the standard for bringing the classic style of Hollywood's Golden Era into the future. The film noir of the past was resurrected,complete with rain soaked streets, trenchcoat-wearing anti-heroes and dark atmosphere. The movie relaunched America's love affair with the style of that era.

Today, I hope that the same will happen with SyFy's Caprica. Caprica is the prequel to Battlestar Galactica. The show's plot aside, the visual elements are phenomenal. The depiction of a highly computerized society that has maintained an incredible level of sophistication is fantastic. The boxy, clunky, function-over-form aesthetic of so many depictions of the future has given way to something much more beautiful. I enjoy the depiction of men in suits and hats riding a monorail to work while sending emails on their paper-thin computers.

Check out the show for an example of how beautiful our modern life can be.

Windy City Burlesque Fest 2010

2010-03-01T23:29:00.001-06:00

This April 15-17, Chicago will host the first Windy City Burlesque Fest. Produced by Belmont Burlesque and Vaudezilla, the festival promises to showcase some of the best national and local acts. The opening night party features two free shows at the Blue Bayou (3734 N Southport), hosted by Dick Dijon (of Varietease fame).

The line-up for the event is nothing short of spectacular. You can see the entire line-up on the WCBF website. Each night is packed with incredible performers. On a personal note, I am an enormous fan of Kitten Deville. I first saw her a few years ago and have loved seeing her perform whenever I can.

Go visit the website and buy your tickets now!

Keep warm in February!

2010-01-21T19:30:00.001-06:00

Help out a local girl!

2010-01-11T19:21:00.005-06:00

Chicago burlesque starlet and Vaudezilla member, Donna Touch needs our help. She is attempting to gain the necessary votes to compete in the Viva Las Vegas 2010 burlesque competition. What is Viva Las Vegas? For the uninitiated, Viva Las Vegas is a yearly gathering of classic cars, rockabilly bands and general craziness in the Nevada sunshine from April 1-4 at the Orleans hotel. The burlesque competition draws talent from across the country, and the world. So let's help the girl compete. If you have the time, why don't you head out to Vegas and cheer our girl on!

Congratulations, Mr. Buble!

2010-01-11T19:13:00.003-06:00

Just a quick note of congratulations to the always dapper, always talented Michael Buble. He has announced his engagement to the beautiful Luisana Loreley Lopilato de la Torre. Ms. de la Torre is an Argentine actress and quite stunning. If you are a fan of his music, then raise a glass to him next time you are out and about.

Blue Bayou Free Burlesque

2010-01-06T14:53:00.000-06:00

La Med: NYE Burlesque and Gourmet Dining

2009-12-30T18:16:00.001-06:00

The Red Head Piano Bar

2009-12-30T17:28:00.003-06:00

The Red Head Piano Bar

16 W Ontario

Chicago, IL 60654

(312) 640-1000

The Red Head Piano Bar is a landmark establishment in Chicago. Located on the Near North Side, The Red Head has an older, affluent clientele that is drawn by it's piano bar of yesteryear kitsch. Some love the atmosphere. Some loathe it. The drinks are mixed better than average and top shelf liquor is the norm. The talent features local piano players and lounge singers that favor Elton John over the Great American Songbook. The Red Head also features a nice cigar selection with a heated and covered smoking area outside.

All in all, the Red Head is a nice place for occasional outings. Bring your folks or your boss. Oh, and look for their new ad that features bombshell Megan Parker!

Big Bad Voodoo Daddy- Heatmeiser

2009-12-23T21:46:00.001-06:00

A holiday classic. Big Bad Voodoo Daddy covers Heitmeiser from the Rankin and Bass special.

Merry Christmas

2009-12-23T19:07:00.001-06:00

Here's a little eye candy to wish everyone a happy holiday.

Penman Hats

2009-12-20T23:59:00.003-06:00

Few things embody the spirit of classic style like a great hat. The driver's cap is all the rage on winter streets from New York to Los Angeles. I love the humble driver's cap and its cousins the Apple and the 8-Panel among the many variations. The ultimate expression of classic style for many, is a great hat. Fedora, porkpie, bowler. Whatever your preference, a well-crafted hat is not only great for expressing your personal style but for paying homage to great style icons of the past.

If you have a fedora in your closet, bravo! If it's your first, is it a wool or cloth piece that may be fraying or worn all too soon? Does it have a gun or a skull silk-screened onto it's crown? Or are you hatless and just looking to get a lid that you've admired on old stars like Bogart or your grandfather's old pics? If so, check out Penman Hats.

I first heard of Penman Hats on the Fedora Chronicles, a website and forum inhabited by hat aficionados, retrophiles and general ne'er-do-wells. Offering a variety of hat related services, Penman Hats will make a custom hat to your liking and specifications. Ideal for a signature look, a custom hat will allow you to find one that suits your face and express your style from bold to classic. It's a great gift to yourself, one that may last a lifetime with proper care.

Secret Weapons: The Tie Bar dot com

2009-12-19T15:26:00.004-06:00

Keeping your tie wardrobe fresh can be challenging. Everyone makes mistakes in this area, particularly when it comes to the flavor of the season patterns. For the novice, matching basic colors comes easily. Matching unusual colors becomes tricky, especially with a suit. While the monochromatic look will always have its place, it gets old quickly. To the rescue is The Tie Bar!

The Tie Bar is one of my favorite web retailers of neckwear. The reasons for this are four-fold. First is the easy to use website. Dividing the offerings into Trendy, Traditional and Trenditional (think trendy takes on traditional patterns), each tie pattern is clearly photographed. Next to it is an easy to read series of color icons showing what shirt and/or suit colors and patterns are recommended for the tie.

Second is variety. Many are offered in XL lengths and the website offers a variety of skinny ties as well. Also available are bow ties and ascots. While all the ties are silk, the sheer variety of patterns makes finding a tie that suits a particular occasion, personality or wardrobe a snap. If you need a quantity of ties for a wedding or a performance, they can accomodate those requests. If you want something truly exceptional, they can create a quantity of custom ties. Great for corporate gifts or student organizations.

Third, I love their pocketsquare selection. Many of the ties have matching pocketsquares but finding a pocketsquare with a complimentary color is possible thanks to the great choices available. The squares are silk, and have some truly beautiful offerings.

Finally is price. The ties, including bows, are $15 (slightly more for XL lengths). Ascots are only $30 and pocketsquares are only $8. For gift giving, check out their Tie of the Month club.

Vote Early and Vote Often

2009-12-19T14:55:00.003-06:00

21st Century Burlesque is taking nominations for it's Top 50 Burlesque Stars. Please take a moment to nominate your favorite Chicago starlets. The winners will be announced at New Years, so vote now.

While you are at it, check out the interview with newly-wedded Michelle L'amour on 21st Century Burlesque!

Burlesque To Keep You Warm This Winter

2009-12-17T23:43:00.008-06:00

The Windy City seems to have gone from pleasant Fall days to Arctic temps with not much warning. Unfortunately, many of us (myself included) seem to shun our social lives during the cold months. Don't get overwhelmed with the holiday craziness. Invite some of your friends out for a night of drinks and gorgeous women dancing for your entertainment. Chicago burlesque darlings Vaudezilla and Red Hot Annie have some great shows lined up for you.

Even better for the ladies, if you need something to keep you going during the winter weather, check out Red Hot Annie's Basic Burlesque Class to indulge your inner diva or just have a great workout. For the gentleman (or lady) of discerning tastes, check out Red Hot Annie's pin-up photos. They do not disappoint!

Want a sample of the goods? Check out the vid for a great holiday performance!