Custom Clothing: A (Very) Brief Primer

Menswear can be divided into three categories, with regard to its manufacture or origin. The first is Ready-to-Wear or Off-the-Rack. The term pertains to clothing bought in a finished state. Since it encompasses everything from a designer label suit to a t-shirt bought in the bargain bin of Wal-Mart, nearly everyone has bought something in this category at one time or another. The positive aspects of this are generally price related, as the wide availability of similar items allows the consumer to acquire items relatively cheaply. It is also convenient, as the item is already made and can be selected, purchased and worn immediately. The negative aspects tend to be a decline in quality in line with price. Simply put, a cheap shirt may cost you a few dollars but it will not look or wear as nicely as a more expensive option. The other negative can be a lack of options. If you really want a navy jacket with peak lapels and a ticket pocket but can only find notch lapels and no ticket pocket, there isn’t much you can do.

The second option is Made-to-Measure or MtM. Made-to-Measure involves taking measurements and then using those measurements to adjust a pre-made pattern. The result is a garment that fits better than one off-the-rack but with less expense than a bespoke garment. Many men dabble in MtM and it does suit a variety of needs. The biggest advantage is the ability to fit “problem areas” that nearly all men have. Most men have a feature that causes them some headaches. Even a gym rat may find his neck or shoulders don’t fit the arm holes of a typical shirt. Whatever it is, an MtM piece can work wonders. Another big advantage is a greater degree of personalization. Monograms, linings, ticket pockets, lapels and more can all be customized. On the whole, MtM is more expensive than buying off the rack but the growing availability of MtM via the Internet and inside many mall-based retailers is causing MtM to be highly comparable in cost to off-the-rack.

The final option is Bespoke, or truly custom (not just customized) clothing. Bespoke clothing is the pinnacle of menswear and the height of the tailor’s art. Once reserved for the truly wealthy, Bespoke is also seeing a widespread availability as Generation Y re-discovers the elegance of a more refined wardrobe that many Baby Boomers and their off-spring lost in learning to “express themselves” in jeans and tees. Even with its increasing availability, Bespoke is quite a bit more expensive than the other options. It is also not for someone in a rush, as the wait time to receive your garment can be weeks or months. For both Made-to-Measure and Bespoke clothing, the quality in materials and construction is of extremely outstanding quality. Even more so than Made-to-Measure, Bespoke is by its very nature defined by the client’s specifications. From an amazing fit to your choice of details, Bespoke can even encompass your lifestyle habits. Addicted to your Blackberry or I-Phone? Your tailor can build custom pockets into your coats, jacket or pants.

Chicago has long been a center for textiles and fashion. It is home to many practitioners of the tailor’s art. While some are great at alterations, those that create shirts, suits and more for their clients are incredible artists. The above definitions and explanations are mere capsules as I explore a few of the custom clothing options in Chicago and on-line. More will follow shortly.